With the demise of Baselworld, SIHH, the predecessor of Watches & Wonders, the current rendition could have had the same fate. Some voices in the industry said that big fairs were not of the time anymore. The outbreak of COVID-19 proved them almost right in a different way, but as a counter effect, the industry very much feels the need to come together when we have an opportunity to do so.

The watch industry is, by the way, one of the strangest in the world, as the mechanical wristwatch has to be the most successful, totally obsolete product in the world. It could have easily gone the way of pocketwatches, but it hasn’t, and given the buzz at Watches & Wonders, I doubt if it will anytime soon. An important part is also that the fair had two highly successful public days, that were both sold out. Just before the end, I spoke with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith, and he was very excited to stay the weekend and welcome collectors, connoisseurs, and curious people of all kinds to the booth.

This year there were also some events organized by Watches & Wonders in downtown Geneva, which were also open to the public. The beauty is that I saw many young people representing the future of the industry we love so much. While they currently might not be in the position to buy anything high-end, allowing them to see, and in some occasions even touch and try on, fine watches to plant a seed that one day might blossom. That is another wonder that will keep this industry, and the marvelous products it creates, hopefully a true perpetual character.

One can best describe this as two parts excitement, one part exhaustion, mixed with a very generous dash of passion, and topped off with some good conversation with some of the best people you will ever meet. As for the brands participating, does the preparation for Watches & Wonders also start for us months before it takes place. While the fair lasts for a week, fitting everything in is quite a challenge. Next to seeing the new watches, there are also many interviews and photo shoots that take place during the event. With quite a substantial number of watch brands participating, sound planning is essential to make the most of it.

During the week, there is no such thing as a typical day other than that it starts early and ends late. Eating a hearty breakfast is highly recommended, as appointments are often planned so tight that having a decent lunch is not always an option. Shuttles take you from the hotel to the fair, where you first have to go through security, after which the day can begin. The organization is rather efficient and goes through a great deal of trouble of accommodating the visitors. For us journalists, there are two press centers from which we can work, a haven of somewhat tranquility that allows us to write and edit, to get the stories about the latest and greatest watches out to you, our readers. And yes, you can bump into the occasional celebrity.

The fair itself is quite large, in particular now that some of the brands that used to exhibit at Baselworld have enjoyed the show. Good shoes are vital, because you will be walking miles and often in a hurry. As the exhaustion kicks in after a day or two, coffee and chocolates become a vital part of your diet, and fortunately, all the brands offer both in abundance. After the last appointments in the early evening hours, the day is far from over. There are dinners to attend, some official ones with the brands, but also quite a few unofficial get-togethers with people from the industry who have become friends. Once back in the hotel, some more writing and editing need to be done before we can finally lay down.

While it is a hectic week, with lots of work to be done, it is also a joy to do. Not only to be among the first to see, touch, and wear the latest models but also to discuss them with the people behind them. This is one of the most important aspects and one of the reasons I feel that watch fairs will always continue to exist in one form or another. From the technical aspects to the design and even the commercial positioning, everything and all is discussed, which will inevitably lead to a sort of information overload. Therefore, the week after the fair is not only for physical recovery but also to let everything sink in that you saw, so we can start planning stories for the months ahead.

Have you ever attended a major watch event? Let us know in the comments! You can also attend one of the next upcoming major watch events this May in Los Angeles at WatchTime LA 2022; visit here for details.

Our solution is simple: divide and conquer. For me, this means that I am very much interested in seeing a cross-section of the industry that is presenting itself. As Editor-at-Large, I fortunately also have that liberty. This means that my schedule is an eclectic collection of different appointments. Of course, Rolex and Patek Philippe are there, but also Baume & Mercier and Panerai. I was pleasantly surprised to see both Charriol and Pequignet being part of Watches & Wonders this year, as both bring back memories of my early days in this industry. Part of the success of Watches & Wonders is, in my opinion, also that smaller but equally important brands have a stage there. I am already looking forward to visiting Louis Moinet, Czapek, and Angelus.

Before social media, there was a veil of mystery over the fairs, as you had to wait for articles to upload and magazines to come out to get the news. Now everything is all over the internet on day one. This has an upside and a downside, as it democratizes the information, but at the same time makes it harder for some new models to get their deserved time in the spotlight. Here is where people like me come in as well. When the dust is settled, we still have a fantastic magazine, both print and online, to give the watches the attention they deserve.

Now, if you will excuse me, I have a suitcase to pack.

Leave any Watches and Wonders related questions in the comments!

With gyroscopic designs and creations mounted on multiple axes, a few long-established and modern luxury manufacturers, as well as independent watchmakers, have taken the “whirlwind,” as the tourbillon is affectionately called by enthusiasts, to literally new dimensions in the wake of the renaissance of mechanical wristwatches.

For its first tourbillon, the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, Grand Seiko drew inspiration from the beauty of the original mechanism, but equipped it with an ingenious design that likewise has a long tradition in fine watchmaking, yet is nonetheless very rare: the constant force. The patented mechanism was first introduced in 2020 in a concept movement called the T0 Constant Force movement. To bring this to the market, the team of designers, engineers and craftsmen entrusted with assembling and completing the movement and case required two years. Every single one of the fully 340 components of this caliber was re-examined and, if necessary, redesigned or reworked. The effort paid off: the 9ST1 caliber is not only smaller than the previous concept movement, but also delivers greater accuracy, as the constant-force mechanism has been optimized.

This novel system ensures an even distribution of energy to the escapement, regardless of the status of the mainspring. The technical sophistication of Grand Seiko’s Caliber 9ST1 is that the hand-wound movement combines the constant-force mechanism with the tourbillon on the same axis. The tourbillon eliminates the precision drop caused by gravity by incorporating the escapement and balance in a rotating cage. Since there are no wheels or other components between the two mechanisms, there is no loss or change in the transmission of torque from the constant-force mechanism to the balance. This provides the mechanism with a longer power reserve of 50 hours and the balance with a more stable amplitude. Together, these features ensure the movement’s highly consistent rate accuracy.

The combination of the two mechanisms not only results in higher precision in the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, but is further a feast for the eyes. The inner tourbillon cage rotates smoothly while the balance oscillates constantly at eight beats per second, and the outer constant-force cage follows this rotational motion at precise one-second intervals. This sequence, which can also be followed by ear, led Grand Seiko to name this bravura piece which translates to “heartbeat.”

The watch also features a stop-seconds mechanism. This enables the rotating tourbillon cage to be stopped by pulling out the crown for precisely setting the seconds. Speaking of accuracy, to meet the company’s high standards, each movement is tested for a full 48 hours in a total of six positions at three different temperatures.

This is twice the length of testing that is standard at Grand Seiko and other industry norms. In addition, each caliber is tested for 34 days to ensure the precision rate, which Grand Seiko quantifies as +5 to -3 seconds per day, over an extended period of time. Once testing is complete and this new standard has been met or exceeded, the movement’s individual performance characteristics are documented in a certificate that Grand Seiko includes with each of the 20 models.

Highest Craftsmanship

Grand Seiko wouldn’t be Grand Seiko if the brand hadn’t created the appropriate setting for this mechanical masterpiece. As is de rigeur at Grand Seiko, the 950 platinum case of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon — which is pressure-resistant to ten bars — and the Brilliant Hard Titanium coating — which is developed in-house — are finished with the time-honored Zaratsu technique that is signature to the brand. Many surfaces, such as the case flanks and lugs, are polished to a distortion-free mirror finish, creating a sophisticated interplay of light and shadows.

Thanks to its open architecture, the essential components, such as the tourbillon, the off-centered time indication and the power reserve display, can be admired from all sides. A look through the sapphire crystal case back also reveals the high standard of finishing, such as the meticulously beveled edges as well as the plate and winding wheels decorated with striped finishes. This has a similar high-quality feel than the Swiss and Glashütte luxury brands.

The strap of the elevated model also impresses with its sophistication. Made of calfskin, it is treated with a traditional method that was once used on samurai armor, among other things. Another nod to Japanese arts and crafts is the Urushi lacquer, which is applied by hand in several layers to the finely polished surface of the strap. This coating has a luster and depth that even modern resin lacquers cannot match. On top of that, the watch comes with an interchangeable crocodile leather strap.

Limited to 20 total editions, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon will retail for $350,000.

To learn more, visit Grand Seiko, here.

When traveling, the yellow 24-hour angular yellow “Snowflake” hand displays the home time in concert with the hour indexes engraved on the fixed stainless-steel bezel. The local time is indicated by the shorter “Snowflake” hand set by a jumping hour, which can be smartly moved either backwards or forwards. The date indication at 3 o’clock is coupled with the local time hand.

This is made possible by the C.O.S.C. chronometer certified manufacture Caliber MT5652 with a built-in GMT function specifically developed for the Black Bay Pro. Rather than adding a module the base caliber’s architecture allows for the technical integration of the complication. As is de rigueur for a Tudor genuine caliber, it amasses a “weekend-proof” power reserve of 70 hours. Retail starts from $3,675.

To learn more, visit Tudor, here.