If you haven’t fallen deep into the horology-nerd rabbit hole, a constant-force escapement is essentially a mechanism designed to ensure consistent accuracy. This had typically been done with either a rementoir or chain and fusée mechanism, but Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement simplified things by actually integrating a constant force mechanism within the escapement. Essentially, the system consists of a flexible blade spring that stores and releases consistent force to the balance wheel and a double escape wheel system that replenishes the blade spring’s tension. It’s almost ingenious in its simplicity, but this was no simple feat and there is a reason we haven’t seen imitators. While the double-wheel escapement of this new iteration is largely the same, there are some slight updates like a new arming rocker which has a locking mechanism via the central lever.

Where the Only Watch edition was done in all pink gold, the new generation of the Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement comes in a titanium case. I doubt there will be many who prefer the aesthetics of the older generation Constant Escapement as the Neo Constant Escapement improves on it in just about every way. First off, the case is downsized from 48mm to 45mm (water resistant to 30m) which is about as small as it can get while still fitting the escapement. Also, central hour and minutes hands replace the old sub-dial at 12 o’clock which makes for a more contemporary and aesthetically pleasing design. This also makes for a cleaner view of the two barrels on the upper part of the dial. These rhodium-finished dauphine-style hands are skeletonized and lumed, making for a very legible dial. The only tradeoff would be the .4mm in additional case thickness from the original to 14.8mm. Finally, the linear power reserve indicator carries over with a refreshed design that allows for easier and more precise reading.

The silicium blade undergoes a thermal treatment which creates an oxidation layer that not only improves resistance but gives it a unique color. The photos above give a good idea how a simple change in angle can reveal either a blue or purple hue depending on the light. The fact that it is surrounded by so much black serves to enhance this visual spectacle. 

The COSC-certified manual-wind Calibre GP09200 has a massive 7-day power reserve that is made exponentially more impressive due to the fact that precision and isochronism is as steady for hour 1 as it is for hour 168. The movement is made up of 266 components (actually down from the 271 of the previous iteration) and operates at 3 Hz. Another architectural change is noticeable on the case back where the silver-toned gear train runs straight through the sea of mechanical blackness that surrounds it. This makes for a very dramatic and impressive display that stands out from its predecessor. 

The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement is a testament to the brand’s prowess in horological innovation which is something that is too frequently overlooked. The biggest changes from the first generation revolved around movement design, aesthetics, and wearability with the new 45mm case size in lightweight titanium. The new black rubber strap with fabric effect just adds to the contemporary vibe and feel of the whole piece. Is it the most practical way to spend $99,600? Of course not but this is a work of horology that reflects a sophisticated understanding and appreciation of watchmaking. The beautifully sleek new package just makes it all the more desirable. 

To learn more, visit Girard-Perregaux, here. 

A watch with a sunset on the dial? Oh yes, right here. Zenith brought it to market as the Defy Midnight Sunset. Surrounded by a diamond-studded bezel, the dial of this 36mm steel watch shines with gradient color ranging from deep sunset red to shimmering yellow. Cosmic flair is assured not only by the dial’s subtle chromatic gradation, but also by its surface texture: wavy guilloché spreads across the face from a center at the Zenith star above the brand name. The new Defy Midnight is powered by automatic Elite Caliber 670, which can be viewed through a sapphire crystal in the back of the case. The steel bracelet can be easily unfastened and replaced by a leather, rubber, or textile wristband, all of which are included with the watch (ref. 16.9200.670/33.M1001, $11,400).

Omega calls its newest Constellation “Show Me Love” and gives it a bold, warm red color with a nuance that ventures into the sunset spectrum. The eye-catcher of this dainty steel watch with a diameter of 29mm and a diamond-studded bezel made from the brand’s proprietary Sedna gold is the dial of deep red aventurine. Its natural texture ensures visual liveliness and the uniqueness of each watch, which is equipped with automatic Master Chronometer Caliber 8700 (ref. 131.58.29.20.99.002, $13,300).

Girard-Perregaux also celebrates red as the universal color of love, which here expresses its precious, rare, and complicated side in the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. Named “Ruby Heart,” this model reveals its movement through cutouts in the dial. These little windows are spanned by a trio of gold bridges, which belong to the repertoire of forms of the manufacture from La Chaux-de-Fonds. This complicated women’s watch is crafted in a limited edition of just three pieces, each of which reminds us of the brand’s history and of its name, which recalls the love between the company’s founder Constant Girard and his wife, watchmaker’s daughter Marie Perregaux. Automatic Caliber GP 09600-1620 would no doubt have satisfied the high standards of both. The 38mm diameter watch is decorated with rubies and other precious stones; the red dial is cut from the natural mineral ruby heart (ref. 99242B52CH01-CKHA, $202,000).

Rado elicits an appeal that is as dramatic as it is cool from the color red in the design of the new True Secret, whose bracelet and case are made of high-tech black ceramic. On the dial, the stylish black color transitions seamlessly into a deep berry red. The focus is on the circular window, which reveals the balance wheel of automatic ETA-based Caliber R734. Diamond indexes add an extra shimmer to this stylish 40mm watch (ref. R27107742, $2,300).

Nomos also embraces the dynamism of the red spectrum. The brand has launched its most youthful watch design to date in the color pink. The Club Campus deep pink leaves caution and solemnity behind and welcomes colorful excitement to the wrist. The California-style dial combines straight indexes, Roman numerals, and Arabic numerals. The 36 or 38mm steel case houses Nomos hand-wound Caliber Alpha. All in all, the Club Campus deep pink is one of the most unconventional and casual options in the world of mechanical manufacture watches (ref. 711, $1,500 or ref. 728, $1,650).

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It’s been a centuries-old trend in clothing: bespoke tailoring is all about making a singular suit or pair of shoes designed expressly for an individual. Today, as more customers are looking to express their individuality, the concept of having a custom-made watch is taking on all-new meaning. People are looking for something edgy, different and expressive of their own thoughts, hobbies or loves. But are watchmakers ready to comply?

“A personalized approach through customization is key for high-end clients, and particularly those with a penchant for haute horlogerie,” says Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith Watch Company. “We see high demand for this service, and delivering it is part of our commitment to fulfilling client expectations. We create custom pieces for clients who are not interested in wearing watches generally available to the public; they prefer unique examples of watchmaking, a way for them to be actively involved in the creation of a timepiece. And this trend is not slowing down; on the contrary, it is rising.”

Having a customized or unique watch is not a new concept. Historically speaking, many of the top watch brands made unique watches a century ago for their top clients. Easily one of the most impressive examples comes in the form of a gentlemen’s race between automobile engineer James Ward Packard and financial banker and art collector Henry Graves, each of whom would regularly turn to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to have the most complicated watches built for them.

For about 35 years starting in 1900, the two men commissioned watches that took years to develop and build, and that would go down in history as the world’s most complicated pieces. In fact, the Graves Super Complication pocketwatch, built by Patek Philippe and delivered in 1933, held the record as the world’s most complicated portable mechanical watch for 56 years.

This is not an isolated example. Many of today’s most iconic watch collections were initially made at the request of clients. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso released in 1931, for instance, was created at the request of polo players who wanted a watch they could wear during play that would not get damaged. The reversible concept was born and the Reverso has been a legendary watch ever since. Similarly, the IWC Portugieser was first built in 1939 at the request of two Portuguese businessmen who wanted a highly legible watch as precise as a marine chronometer for the wrist. The list goes on and on.

In the past, this type of customization was a natural way for a watch brand to grow. However, as time passed and technology progressed, brands became more reliant on machinery and tools for cutting mainplates and other components. It became more and more difficult to take on those custom orders.

Today, with nanotechnology high-tech CNC machines and some automated technology (not to mention computer-aided design), big watch brands simply can’t keep up with the request for specially made movements and watches. Just the retooling of equipment to stop producing one watch model and to start cutting parts for another model can take weeks of lost production.

“There are a lot of powerful buyers who would love to get factory-made customized watches by certain brands; they want watches nobody else can get. But most brands can’t do it because they don’t have the resources, or have so many requests,” says Paul Boutros, Head of Americas & Senior Vice President of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo auction house.

What is Customization
That is not to say that watches customized for individuals don’t get made. They do. More often than we know. Many brands don’t “kiss and tell” about their customization and piece-unique work — often because they know requests would come flooding in if word got out, or out of simple respect for the client.

So, what can be customized on a watch? It depends. On a customized watch (which can be different from a piece unique), a brand might personalize it for a client by adding, for instance, sapphires, emeralds or other gemstones to the case, lugs and even the dial. Other times they offer unique engravings or miniature paintings at the customer’s request. In some instances, top watch brands might customize a movement part with special colors or wheels.

Sometimes, a brand will customize a watch for small groups, such as a group of collectors, a military sect or some other group — in very small numbers — and nobody even knows about them until one comes to auction. “Those customized watches, though not unique, are usually very under the radar and tend to do well at auction,” says Boutros.

Often, too, some watch brands offer a specified selection of customization. Some brands may offer a special model in their collection and then let customers know that certain aspects of the model — such as case material, gemstone choice, strap or other element — can be specially made.

“We receive many, many requests each year and the thought that each of these precious pieces is so significant to its recipient makes us feel like we are helping to build memories of special moments, memories that live on with the timepiece,” says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, which offers customized details on its Hijri Perpetual Calendar watch. “Custom-made timepieces are the most fulfilling challenges we have the opportunity to meet. When a watch lover comes to us with a special request, it allows our teams to look for solutions in terms of mechanics or of finishing to satisfy a very distinctive demand.”

In a piece-unique watch — a true one-off timepiece — a brand can take customization to any level, even making an entirely new watch movement (though this is very rare).

Who Can Get A Customized Watch
As mentioned earlier, many big brands can’t stop production to customize watches for individuals, although many of the independents and smaller boutique brands try. In fact, Jacob & Co. is one that talks about its customization work for loyal clients. It has created an Astronomia watch for actor Leonardo DiCaprio’s charity and built a custom Five-Time Zone watch for designer and entrepreneur Virgil Abloh recently.

“Doing bespoke work has been a part of my company since the very beginning,” says Jacob Arabo, founder, Jacob & Co. “It’s how I set myself apart then and we continue to do this today. Nowadays, true luxury is about exclusivity and there is nothing more exclusive than having a bespoke timepiece. I love making my clients’ dreams come true, and our company is set up to create these unique pieces.”

Don’t be fooled, though, getting a brand to make something unique requires the right relationship.“Just having enough money for it isn’t enough. Most people need to have a long-standing relationship and a really interesting concept for a brand to stop work on its serially produced watches to build a one-off,” says Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of Business Development for Material Good, when talking about pieces unique. “It is not just a money thing. It is about having a long history with the brand, a long organic, meaningful relationship.”

It takes time to build those relationships, and, in many instances, impatience results in after-market customization. However, watch pundits will urge collectors to wait and try to work directly with the brand for personalization. This way, the customized watch is made according to the quality cannons of the brand so that it will hold its value for centuries to come. It is also recorded in the brand archives and carries the brand warranty.

And, according to Boutros, customized watches done in cooperation with the brands do hold their value. In fact, several customized watches that recently sold at auction not only held their value but exceeded anticipated estimates. This includes a unique Kari Voutilainen watch with engraved and enameled case that was made especially for a client. The watch was estimated to sell for CHF 50,000 to CHF 100,000 and sold for over the value at CHF 125,000.

“It is nice to see that these unique pieces, that were the result of someone’s unique concept that was maybe the brainchild of a collector, and were a collaboration between individual and brand, are so well received,” says Boutros.

While many brands keep their customized watches top secret, others are proud of their specialized work, and sometimes seek client permission to talk about it — especially because often that customization leads to new technology and patents. Such is the case with the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260 that was created at the request of a consumer. Granted, that customer had to wait eight years for the piece-unique watch to be completed, but it was worth the wait. It was deemed the most complicated watch in the world when it was unveiled in 2017. And because of that special order, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled a host of new watches with concepts and complications first born of that special piece.

Independents Might Do It Better
Because they already produce watches in extremely limited numbers, certain independent watch brands may do a better job of delivering customized watches. They can take a single watchmaker aside to work on a special order or slow up their production for that special watch and nobody really notices.

Some independent brands actually prioritize custom-made pieces — understanding that this is what today’s customer is all about. Andersen Genève, for instance, has been making unique pieces since its founding in 1979. While many are part of its “Piece Unique” series of watches designed and developed by Svend Andersen and other watchmakers, some are created especially in response to client requests. (In fact, it is not unusual for brands to create unique watches of their own design that they know customers will ultimately buy. Vacheron Constantin does it in its Les Cabinotiers series, and Patek Philippe does it in its Rare Handcrafts collection.)

H. Moser & Cie. also regularly creates specialized watches for its clients but limits the number of custom pieces it makes annually. According to Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., the brand creates about 10 unique pieces per year for clients. “The type of customization is quite diverse, some just want a unique dial color to match their favorite wines, others want new techniques like painting on mother-of-pearl or a combination of techniques.” He references a unique piece made for a client as an anniversary watch for his wife that had to feature a dragon, the color blue and amethyst stones. “The result is mesmerizing. To be honest, it inspired [me], and maybe will translate into more standard models in some form in the future.”

At a more affordable level, Meerson predominantly creates unique pieces for clients (though the brand also offers “production series” watches). According to Alexandre Meerson, it was his dream to create special watches for customers, working directly with them to design something personal and lasting. “With bespoke or made-to-measure, people discover the virtues of patience, and the deep pleasure that comes with having something created just for you. They watch the project unfold with emotion that is almost childlike.”

New Methods of Personalization
Recognizing how important customizing and personalizing a timepiece is to many consumers, certain brands are trying to think outside the box. This includes turning to some not-so-traditional methods. Among them, offering digital configurators where customers can pick and choose the colors of materials, movement colors, case and bezel metals, straps and more. Armin Strom was perhaps the true pioneer in the world of configuration three years ago and has been the model others emulate. Recently, Porsche Design began offering an extensive “personalization” program, as well.

Other brands that admit their own limitations when it comes to custom work are authorizing other companies to do it for them. Such is the case with Hublot, Zenith, TAG Heuer and others who work with Bamford Watch Department — authorizing customization of certain models. Even Girard-Perregaux has started working with Bamford to allow personalized options for its beloved Cat’s Eye watches for women.

“Partnering with Bamford and offering the Cat’s Eye on his platform allows our clients to customize dials, hands, straps, colors so they can give their own twist to a timeless classic,” says Clemence Dubois, Chief Marketing Officer for Girard-Perregaux. “If we don’t have the capacity to do this ourselves, it is good to authorize customization to meet the demands of today’s clients.”

In these instances, Bamford works directly with the brands to fulfill a custom order — so that the watch is manufacture-approved, built to its exacting standards and still holds a certificate of authenticity and warranty.
Having a luxury watch that isn’t just all blinged out but that is personalized by the brand may well be the way to go. As American rapper and songwriter Jay-Z says in his song 30 Something, “I don’t got the bright watch, I got the right watch.”

It’s been some time since the release of the Constant Escapement and even longer since the prototype was revealed back in 2008, so here is a brief primer on just what makes it so special. Supplying steady force to an escapement is the key to stable and consistently accurate timekeeping with mechanisms like the Rementoir or Fusée and Chain serving as some of the other well-known horological developments devised for this purpose. Girard-Perregaux’s proprietary Constant Escapement achieved this in a simpler way by having a constant force device within the escapement itself through the use of flexible silicon to create a blade spring.

While the original Constant Escapement featured an hour and minutes sub-dial, this new version has central hour, minutes, and seconds hands done in black nickel which very legibly contrasts against the matte gold dial. The new GP09200-2196 movement is a COSC-certified manual-wind caliber that operates at 3 Hz with a minimum 7-day power reserve. As with the first Constant Escapement, the silicium parts are done in purple. Finally, the case is downsized from 48mm to a much more wearable 45mm wide and 14.8mm thick and comes on a black rubber strap with fabric effect. 

The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch 2023 is a neat way to soft launch an updated version of this horologically important watch and it will be interesting to see what it fetches at the charity auction. 

To learn more, visit Only Watch, here. 

ORIS AQUIS DATE
Oris widens the Aquis model’s already diverse color palette with a variation that transitions from mint green to gray. This combines with the light gray inlays made of the heavy metal tungsten on the bezel to produce a fresh new look. Self-winding Sellita Caliber SW200 with Oris’s characteristic red rotor ticks inside the stainless-steel case. The case has a sapphire crystal and a solid back, and it remains water resistant to a depth of 300 meters. The new dial debuts in the smaller version of the Aquis, which is 39.5 mm in diameter and costs $2,050 as shown.

Oris Aquis Date

GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO ABSOLUTE CHRONOGRAPH
The dials in the new Laureato Absolute collection shimmer blue in the center and almost black at the rim. The color gradient looks especially handsome on the chronograph, which also has subdials with black centers. The 44-mm PVD-coated titanium case encloses self-winding manufacture Caliber GP03300-1058. Attached to a rubber wristband with decorative blue stitching, the new chronograph costs $12,900.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph

H. MOSER & CIE. ENDEAVOUR TOURBILLON
Moser is a pioneer for dials with color gradients, which this manufacture in Schaffhausen describes as fumé. The latest is the Endeavour Tourbillon in “Cosmic Green.” The dial’s design is particularly effective thanks to the total absence of indexes and numerals. The 42-mm white-gold case is the home of self-winding Caliber HMC 804 with a double hairspring and an ample 72-hour power reserve. Moser builds 50 pieces, each of which sells for $69,000.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SIXTIES
After an eye-catching green dial last year, the Glashütte brand – or more specifically its dial manufacturer in Pforzheim, Germany – now unveils the same tech-nique in orange. Red and black lacquers, applied by a very special technique to the irregularly embossed dial, create the unique dégradé effect. The 39-mm steel watch is powered by the manufacture’s self-winding Caliber 39-52. This version, which will be produced in 2019 only, costs $6,400.

Glashütte Original Sixties

TAG HEUER AUTAVIA ISOGRAPH
A technical specialty ticks behind this new model’s dial, which has a color gradient in blue, green, brown, dark gray or light gray. The brand replaced the conventional hairspring in ETA’s self-winding Caliber 2824 with TAG Heuer’s own “Isograph” balance spring. This high-tech spring is made of carbon graphene, which is sturdier and results in a more stable rate. The latter is confirmed by the official COSC chronometer testing authority. The stainless-steel Autavia Isograph with ceramic bezel and leather strap is 42 mm in diameter and retails for $3,600.

TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph

MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE
The color gradient of the new 1858 models is most clearly visible in the 1858 Geosphere, which displays a second time zone on a subdial at 9 and also shows the Earth’s 24 full-hour standard time zones for the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The 42-mm case has a ceramic compass bezel and an engraved titanium back. The case houses Sellita’s self-winding Caliber SW300, which Montblanc has equipped with the brand’s own time-zone module. Only 1,858 pieces of this time-zone watch are available. Each costs $6,300.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere