Collectors flocked to experience the latest timepieces from 36 brand exhibitors, some revealed to the world for the first time live from the show floor. Renowned investor, author, TV personality, and collector Kevin O’Leary also attended the event, describing WatchTime New York 2023 as “Spectacular.” SAG-award-winning actor Aldis Hodge (“Black Adam”, “City on a Hill”) was also spotted at the event on Sunday, October 22.

The event kicked off with a sold-out VIP cocktail event on Friday, October 20, offering the first chance to experience the latest timepieces from the 36 brand exhibitors and the rare opportunity to mingle with global brand exhibitors, fellow collectors, and tastemakers while enjoying light bites and custom cocktails from WatchTime New York sponsor and Fifth Avenue retailer Wempe. Attendees were also treated to a grand reveal by Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo and Sacha Lakic – who unveiled their Blacktrack Motors collaboration and Blacktrack watch live on the show floor.

Saturday opened with insights from a high-profile collector – Kevin O’Leary, “Mr. Wonderful,” together with WatchTime Publisher Sara Orlando and WatchTime Senior Editor Bilal Khan. The renowned investor, TV personality, author, and watch collector also took time to walk the WatchTime New York show floor, mingling with fellow watch collectors and trying on watches from 36 leading watch brands under the grand dome of Gotham Hall. O’Leary wore two timepieces to the event – one on each wrist, and one timepiece sporting his trademark red watch strap. 

When asked what he thought about WatchTime New York, Kevin O’Leary replied: “Spectacular,” continuing: “What I appreciate about this is that it’s a gathering of a global scale. These are brands from all around the world coming together. It’s a chance for collectors like me to see what’s next but also what came before, because some of these brands are displaying some very rare vintage pieces. So, I would never get to see these unless I was here… I think that’s the importance of this: understanding there’s a past to this industry as well as a future. Putting them both together in one show is genius.”  

The 36 brand exhibitors this year included Armin Strom, Arnold & Son, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Bovet, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Chopard, Chronoswiss, Cyrus, Czapek, Frederique Constant, G-Shock, Gerald Charles, Glashütte Original, Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., HYT, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Erard, Massena LAB, MB&F, Moritz Grossmann, Norqain, Oris, Parmigiani Fleurier, Perrelet, Piaget, RGM, Roger Dubuis, Speake-Marin, Ulysse Nardin, Vianney Halter, Voutilainen, and Zeitwinkel. Industry executives on site throughout the weekend included Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo, Kari Voutilainen of Voutilainen, Xavier de Roquemaurel of Czapek, Roland Murphy of RGM, Oris CEO of The Americas VJ Geronimo, and Emmanuel Breguet. 

Throughout the day Saturday and Sunday, attendees enjoyed complimentary tastings from Wolves Whiskey and Vin Fraîche Wine Group in between panel presentations that included “The Return of the Dress Watch,” moderated by Jeff Kingston and featuring Kelly Yoch (Director of Client Relations at Watches of Switzerland), Michael Hickcox, and Ken Koshiyama, (Haute Horlogerie International Sales Manager of Chopard). Saturday closed with “Aviation and Watches: What is a True Pilots’ Watch?”, moderated by Jeff Kingston, joined by Emmanuel Breguet (VP Head of Patrimony). 

The show closed its eighth edition with a final day of panels and watch presentations – including “Best alone, best together,” a panel exploring unexpected brand collaborations. The panel was moderated by WatchTime Editor-in-Chief Roger Ruegger, and featured panelists including Pascal Ravessoud (FHH), VJ Geronimo (Oris), Carlos Rosillo (Bell & Ross), and Adam Craniotes (RedBar).

The show closed with a panel celebrating indie watchmakers: “Independent Watchmaking on the Mezzanine.” Hosted by Jeff Kingston, the feature presentation highlighted Kari Voutilainen, Vianney Halter, Moritz Grossmann, Laurent Ferrier, Massena Lab, Cyrus, and Zeitwinkel. 

Many of the new and notable timepieces on display were exhibited for the first time on North American soil at WatchTime New York. Timepiece highlights included – but were not limited to – the Speake-Marin Openworked Sandblasted Titanium and Red Gold, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna Meteorite in red gold, the Bremont Supermarine GMT S302, the Czapek Quai des Bergues 40.5m, and the new Gerard Charles’ Maestro 8.0 Squelette. Zeitwinkel also introduced its “MAKS” timepiece collection to U.S. collectors for the first time. 

“The fact that our WatchTime network of collectors keep returning to this show year after year is a testament to the vitality of the U.S. market and the wholly unique experience our show provides. We have created a forum that brings collectors and brands together to learn, interact, and build connections.” 

Sara Orlando, Publisher of WatchTime New York

“We are proud to bring collectors and watchmakers together like never before – uniting the global watch community here in the heart of New York City at WatchTime New York.”

Roger Ruegger, WatchTime Editor-in-Chief

To learn more, visit WatchTime New York, here.

The latest example is Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine, a stainless steel iteration of Marine Torpilleur Moonphase which was introduced two years ago. Limited to 300 pieces, the hallmark elements of this marine-chronometer inspired timepiece–the prominent subsidiary seconds sub dial including the moon phase indication, the power reserve indication in historic “Haut” and “Bas” style, the large Roman numerals, and the bold hands, are staged within this fascinating miniature night sky.

As is bon ton at Ulysse Nardin, this stainless steel timepiece is powered by a genuine movement that uses cutting-edge silicon technology. COSC-certified, the self-winding caliber UN-119 features a silicon balance spring and escapement wheel, and an anchor in Diamonsil. With 222 components, it operates at 28,800 vph and provides 60 hours of power reserve.

Pricing for the new Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine is marked at $13,600.

To learn more, visit Ulysse Nardin, here.

Now Glashütte Original, which has an impressive prowess on this field of micro-mechanical precision, introduced a new milestone in the art of tourbillon featuring a “flyback” mechanism. When the crown is pulled, a vertical clutch halts the balance and locks the tourbillon cage in place. When the crown is advanced to its next position and held there, the tourbillon cage swings up smoothly until the second hand at the tip of the cage comes to a stop at the zero marker.  

Limited to just 50 pieces, the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is further distinguished by an innovative minute detent. When the tourbillon is set to zero, the minute hand simultaneously moves ahead to the next index. This synchronization of the second and minute hands permits the time to be set with greatest precision while also offering a mechanical “melody” as one can hear the minute hand jump from one index to the next. 

At the heart of this horological masterpiece ticks the manual winding calibre 58-06 that runs at a frequency of 21,600 half oscillations per hour and has a 70-hour power reserve. Its silicon balance spring protects watch against the influence of magnetic fields and changes in temperature.

This manufacture movement, visible on the dial side within the 42mm platinum case, is designed to put the spotlight fully on the tourbillon, including intricate details such as the damping wheel, which ensures a smooth upward movement when the tourbillon is reset. It is set within an awesome laser-engraved decorative Clous de Paris pattern which further highlights the stunning architecture. The dial and tourbillon cage are mounted like two small towers above the movement. 

Another eye-catcher can be found within the off-centered hour and minute sub-dial. There is a depiction of a globe including a day/night display, with the sun and moon completing their orbits around the spherical axis once every 24 hours. 

In order to put the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon’s rate precision to the ultimate test, each watch is examined by the independent Thuringian Weights and Measures Office to ensure it meets the German DIN 8319 official chronometer standard. During this process, the watches undergo a test lasting 15 days, during which they must prove their reliability in five different positions and at three different temperatures. 

Pricing of the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon Limited Edition is marked at $168,200.

To learn more, visit Glashütte Original, here.

On the wrist, the new S302 features a familiar 40mm Trip-Tick case water resistant to 300m, with its design reminiscent of both previous Supermarine launches and Bremont watches at large. A stepped, screw-down crown and contrasting use of beveled polishing and brushed finishing adds to the multi-dimensional aesthetic of the watch. On the primarily steel edition, a day/night green and blue aluminum bezel insert defines the look, while the two DLC models opt for a black ceramic bezel insert with contrasting cream numerals. The fully DLC edition is available on either a leather or rubber strap, while the other two models come equipped on either of those or a stainless steel bracelet; the strap profile on each model is slightly slimmer, with the new design providing a more comfortable fit on the wrist.

Underneath a domed sapphire crystal we come to the Supermarine display of the watch, presented in either a blue or black colorway depending on the model and with Super-LumiNova details throughout. Printed geometric indices mark each of the hours, while an outer curved minute ring with new orange-accented quarter markings work to increase quick-legibility of the display. A subtle date indicator adds daily utility towards the 3 o’clock position, while an orange-tipped GMT hands complements the local time hands, altogether providing a look as good looking as it is useful.

The new movement powering the travel diver is an updated edition of the previous modified Sellita caliber used in the original S302. Dubbed as a modified Calibre 11 1/2’’’ BE-932AV, the new mechanism features a 50-hour power reserve, up from 38-hours in the previous iteration of the watch. The automatic movement also features a chronometer rating, whereas the previous movement did not. According to the brand, the updated power reserve and accuracy rating are a result of improved “pallet efficiency and barrel optimization,” with these mechanical improvements to be expanded to Bremont’s other watches over time.

The new Bremont Supermarine GMT S302 will be available this fall, with the two-tone version limited to 400 editions and the other options to come as regular production models. Pricing for the new collection ranges from $3,750 to $4,450 depending on the model and strap configuration.

To learn more, visit Bremont, here.

And to purchase tickets to WatchTime New York 2023, click here.

In the case of both models, we see a familiar Arnold and & Son silhouette, with the platinum edition crafted in Pt 950 and the red gold variation opting for 18k 5N. A primarily polished finishing throughout adds to the obvious refinement of the timepieces, while a signature crown places the design further in line with the traditional motifs of the brand. With a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 12.95mm, these timepieces take up space on the wrist without becoming overbearing, while a hand-stitched alligator leather strap secures the model in place.

The dial of the DSTB 42 series is a testament to Arnold & Son’s dedication to aesthetics, with familiar design language merging with the new true beat display for a unique display. The blue PVD-treated dial of the DSTB 42 Red Gold and the salmon hue of the DSTB 42 Platinum each exude an inviting glow, with these textured surfaces enhancing the multi-dimensional style of the watch. The sunray-brushed finish, combined with the opulence of white opal for the hours and minutes sub-dial, elevates these timepieces further, while the openwork and finely chamfered gold bridges create a captivating visual interplay, adding depth and intrigue throughout the design.

At the heart of these timepieces lies the Arnold & Son Manufacture calibre A&S6203. With 32 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers a power reserve of 55 hours. The true-beat seconds mechanism, represented by an anchor-shaped counterpoise on the dial side, pays homage to Arnold & Son’s historical connection with marine chronometers. The meticulous finishing of the mainplate, bridges, and oscillating weight in 22-carat gold showcases the brand’s commitment to excellence, with this fine finishing visible via an exhibition sapphire caseback.

The Arnold & Son DSTB 42 Platinum is limited to 38 pieces, with pricing marked at CHF 54,400, while the DSTB 42 Red Gold is limited to 88 pieces, with its pricing placed at CHF 42,600.

To learn more, visit Arnold & Son, here.

And to purchase tickets to WatchTime New York 2023, click here.