In 1965, Oris launched a divers’ watch that was ultramodern for its time. It had a case that remained water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, a unidirectional rotatable bezel and large luminous numerals. Reissued 50 years later as the Divers Sixty-Five, it proves to be one of this manufacturer’s most successful new models – thanks in part to the still-unflagging popularity of the retro trend.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph is based on a watch from 1965.

Based on Oris’s First Divers’ Watch
The high-fidelity reissue of the three-handed watch from the 1960s was followed by a retro-modern facelift, various special models – also with innovative wristbands made of recycled plastic – and finally a chronograph. This model too was first released in 2018 as a limited special edition and, after a three-handed watch, was the second Divers Sixty-Five model to be dedicated to Carl Brashear, who became the U.S. Navy’s first amputee diver in 1948 and the first African-American seaman to earn certification as a master diver.

It’s well known that Oris honors noteworthy people with special timepieces and that this brand is committed to environmental protection, to saving the world’s oceans and to other philanthropic causes. What could be more appropriate to Carl Brashear’s biography than a divers’ watch that reflects the style of his era?

The special edition consists almost entirely of bronze, a material that’s currently in vogue in various timepieces, but bronze is used only for the unidirectional rotatable diver’s bezel of this 43-mm serially manufactured chronograph, our test watch. The outfit of the rotatable bezel has changed too. The former massive component with raised numerals has morphed into a blackened aluminum inlay with a flush minutes scale. The bezel clicks into place in 120 individual settings, which makes it difficult to adjust the bezel so it corresponds to the nearest minute with the scale along the dial’s periphery. The difficulty is further exacerbated because the highly domed curvature along the rim of the sapphire crystal tends to distort the view of the rose-gold markings on the black dial.

The black dial is dominated by broad hands and prominent hour markers.

The strongly curved contours of the crystal allude to the past and contribute to the timepiece’s retro charm. The original crystal was made of plastic in the 1960s, but nowadays the glass above the dial is crafted from scratch-resistant sapphire and given an anti-reflective coating on its underside.

The case’s diameter has grown from 36 to 43 mm over the years and is now made of stainless steel rather than the original chrome-plated brass. But with a water resistance of 100 meters, it isn’t quite as watertight as the cases of most other contemporary divers’ watches. Pressure resistance to 200 and even 300 meters are more in keeping with the current state of the art.

Of course, Oris doesn’t need to prove that this brand can build contemporary divers’ watches. Any doubts are immediately dispelled, for example, by the Oris Aquis or Prodiver model lines, both of which are professional devices with high resistance to pressure and diverse innovations within the collection. The fact that the Divers Sixty-Five can only withstand pressure of 100 meters should be interpreted as an homage to history and is acceptable in this line, even if the name “Divers” would initially suggest a more pressure-resistant case. Bathing, swimming, snorkeling and diving at shallow depths pose no problem at all for the Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph.

This model is an equally pleasant companion on terra firma. Its black dial is dominated by the broad hands and prominent applied indexes that characterize this line. All of the displays are generously filled with yellow Super-LumiNova “Old Radium.” This luminous material underscores the watch’s retro style by day and glows bright green in the dark. Also luminous at night are the hand on the subdial for the continuously running seconds, which shows at a glance that the movement is still running; the chronograph’s elapsed-minutes hand; and, of course, the orientation dot on the unidirectional rotatable divers’ bezel. Only the chronograph’s elapsed seconds remains dark, but every diver knows that the smallest unit of time isn’t very important in this sport, where minutes count most.

“Old Radium” luminous material accentuates the watch’s retro character and ensures good legibility.

Bronze, Retro and Bicompax Reflect Current Trends
When measuring an elapsing interval, the current number of elapsed minutes can be read on the black counter at 3 o’clock. This subdial is slightly recessed and bears anthracite-colored calibrations. The subdial for the continually running seconds is identically styled. It’s positioned diametrically across the dial at 9 o’clock.

Together with its counterpart at 3 o’clock, this results in the so-called bicompax chronograph arrangement, which is just as trendy as retro design nowadays. Retro and bicompax go together perfectly because a chronograph dial with only two counters similarly recalls the past. A bicompax arrangement also gives a dial the clarity and tidiness that are likewise increasingly in demand these days. This fidelity to the past is further accentuated by the absence of a date display and the presence of both a screw-down crown modeled after its original counterpart and little capped push-buttons to operate the chronograph.

The chronograph’s functions can be triggered by pressing the corresponding buttons. The crown can be screwed and unscrewed very conveniently and protrudes quite far from the case in its hand-setting position. The buttons and crown operate Oris’s self-winding Caliber 771, which is based on the Sellita SW510 in its reduced version without date display and without a 12-hour chronograph counter. It runs with only average accuracy and, in some positions, showed even larger deviations of more than 10 seconds per day. Although the mostly unadorned caliber remains hidden behind a massive, opaque, fully threaded back, it is, of course, equipped with Oris’s typical red rotor.

The 43-mm case, domed sapphire crystal, and bronze-and-aluminum bezel blend retro and modern elements.

The Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph can be worn with either a leather strap a or stainless-steel bracelet: the leather strap reaffirms the retro style with its stitching and buckle, while the stainless-steel bracelet radiates a sporty, modern charm. The connecting pieces firmly attach the case to the metal wristband, which is supple, soft and culminates in a one-sided folding clasp. Only the process of shortening the bracelet proves somewhat cumbersome because the wristband’s links are pinned rather than screwed together.

Two Expressive Outfits
The bottom line: anyone who is looking for an expressive retro watch will find it in the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph. This model is convincing thanks to authentic details, which it realizes in a modern way. We would suggest that Oris make some improvements in the fine adjustment of the movement and a simple system to switch from one wristband to another would also be welcome – because even if you wear it with the stainless-steel bracelet, this watch always makes a strong impression.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Oris SA, Ribigasse 1, 4434 Hölstein, Switzerland
Reference number: 771 7744 4354 8 21 18
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chonograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, 30-minute counter), bezel is rotatable in one direction only
Movement: Oris 771 based on Sellita SW 510, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, gold-plated nickle balance, Nivarox hairspring, bipartite index fine adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, 48-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm
Case: Stainless steel/bronze, domed sapphire crystal anti-reflectively treated on its underside, water resistant to 100 meters
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless steel with one-sided stainless-steel folding clasp
Rate results (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours):
On the wrist +7.2
Dial up +5.3 / +8.4
Dial down +6.1 / +8.7
Crown up +10.2 / +11.6
Crown down +7.5 / +12.3
Crown left +3.7 / +7.3
Greatest deviation 6.5 / 5.0
Average deviation +6.6 / +9.7
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 314° / 298°
Hanging positions 292° / 270°
Dimensions: Diameter = 43.19 mm, height = 16.44 mm, weight = 162.0 grams
Variations: With leather strap: $4,000
Price: $4,250

Tudor is one of the few brands whose desirability has increased significantly in recent years. This is mainly due to the attractiveness of its models, most certainly including the Black Bay and the smaller version, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, launched in 2018. The version we tested here came on the market in 2021 in a silver case with a taupe-colored dial and bezel.

The name Fifty-Eight refers to 1958, the year in which Tudor introduced its first dive watch. French Navy divers turned to the brand to develop an ideal dive watch, designed especially for their needs, and Tudor consequently became the outfitter for French combat divers. The 39-mm case size is the same as its historical predecessor. The rotating bezel and smaller dial give the watch an understated look that is in line with current trends.

The vintage appearance is heightened by a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which replaces the original acrylic glass. The dial also has a slight retro-style curve. The narrow lugs and the typography on the rotating bezel also cite Tudor’s history. Even the date was omitted for a more historically accurate impression. The traditional “snowflake” hands have been in use at Tudor since the late 1960s.

In contrast to previous models, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 that was introduced in 2021 has a taupe-colored bezel and dial. The color, which could also be viewed as a faded black, goes well with the vintage design. While on the other hand, the gray-brown tone is also a modern trend color, especially in current interior design.

A Secret Silver Alloy
The taupe color harmonizes well with the warm tones of the 925 silver case. The designation “925” means the case is made of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent other materials. Conventional sterling silver also contains this amount of pure silver with the rest being primarily copper, which gives the metal a reddish hue. However, sterling silver has a tendency to tarnish, as anyone owning sterling silver flatware can attest to. It is the result of a chemical reaction between the silver and sulfur-containing substances in the air, darkening the silver over time. To prevent this, Tudor has used a different alloy that is touted as being non-tarnishing. Although Tudor has not revealed the other materials, there are known alloys containing palladium and germanium that prevent tarnishing and can even be hardened. This material’s hardness is still more comparable to gold than to steel. The Tudor case shines with a bright luster and is warmer in color than stainless steel or platinum.

While the aluminum scale on the diving bezel is not as resistant to scratches as a ceramic alternative, its matte surface goes better with the watch’s vintage look. All in all, our test watch impresses, with an attractive design and very harmonious colors.

Happily, functionality did not fall victim to design here. Large luminous markers and a generous application of luminous material on the hands provide excellent legibility both day and night. The screw-down crown is easy to grasp; it decouples itself from the winding mechanism to reduce wear. The inclusion of a hack mechanism, plus no date display and no pulled-out crown position for that function, make time setting simple. The unidirectional rotating bezel ratchets in one-minute increments and is easy to grasp and turn thanks to its coined edge. Its clicking operation feels almost as rich as that of a Rolex timepiece. A luminous marker shows dive time, even in the dark. Thanks to the case, which is waterproof to a depth of 200 meters, the Black Bay is truly suitable for diving, at least when you wear the NATO textile strap.

Strap Options
Our test watch came with an attractively textured dark-brown leather strap with contrast stitching and a rubber lining, which extends the life of the strap. A very well-constructed, practical pin buckle is made of brushed silver, which matches the case. Visually, we liked the taupe textile strap with a silver central stripe better than the leather strap because it doesn’t taper toward the buckle as much. However, the textile strap obscures the caseback, which is especially unfortunate here since this is the first Black Bay model in regular production with a transparent window that permits a view of automatic Caliber MT5400. The caliber is produced by the movement manufacturer Kenissi, which is also a supplier to Chanel, Breitling, Fortis, and other watch brands.

A Robust Caliber
The movement boasts both sturdiness and precision. Its considerable height of 4.99 mm makes it robust to avoid functional disturbances, even in the case of the smallest tolerance fluctuations that may have occurred in production. In addition, the balance is secured by a full bridge rather than on just one side. The silicon hairspring maintains centricity, as it is resistant to deformation caused by impact or other disturbances. Other high-quality features of this in-house movement include the extended 70-hour power reserve and free-sprung balance wheel with four regulating screws — so the rate is not adjusted by changing the active length of the hairspring, as is usually the case with most ETA calibers. Decorations to the movement are modest but the rotor is skeletonized and has a sunburst finish and a Tudor engraving.

Rate precision is certified by COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, where Tudor sends a majority of its movements to be checked (the MT5602-1U used in the new Black Bay Ceramic comes with a Master Chronometer certificate from METAS). In addition to other criteria, the rate results are guaranteed to remain within a range of -4 and +6 seconds per day. Results shown on the electronic timing machine confirm this level of accuracy: the values in different positions remain quite close, while the average deviation was almost perfect: only +1 second per day. On the wrist, we saw a gain of 2 seconds per day, which was likely due to the fact that the watch was placed “dial-up” overnight, the position that showed the greatest gain of +5 seconds.

The technical features of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 put it on the cutting edge, and its execution and finishing make it a standout. The design mix of retro elements and warm gray tones knows how to inspire, and the additional cost of $950 above the base price for the silver version feels moderate and appropriate.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Tudor, Rue François-Dussaud 3-5, 1211 Geneva 26, Switzerland
Reference number: M79010SG-0001
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Movement: Caliber MT5400, automatic, COSC-certified chronometer, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, stop- seconds mechanism, silicon hairspring, free-sprung balance with four regulating screws, Incabloc shock absorber, 70-hour power reserve, diameter = 26 mm, height = 4.99 mm
Case: 925 silver, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window; water resistant to 200 meters
Strap and clasp: Calfskin strap with rubber lining and silver pin buckle
Rate results (deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up +5
Dial down +1
Crown up +1
Crown down −1
Crown left −1
Crown right +1
Greatest deviation 6
Average deviation +1
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 291°
Hanging positions 255°
Dimensions: Diameter = 39 mm, height = 12 mm, weight = 90 grams
Variations: With textile strap (Ref. M79010SG-0002, $4,300)
Price: $4,300

SCORES:
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): The calfskin strap with rubber lining is well made, as is the practical silver pin buckle. 8
Case (10): Excellent finishing of the case made of a special silver alloy 8
Dial and hands (10): Domed dial, applied markers and cleanly polished hands give the watch a high-quality overall impression. 9
Design (15): An attractive retro design with well-matched warm gray tones 14
Legibility (5): The generous application of luminous material on the displays and the high contrast between the hands and the dial make for excellent legibility, both day and night. 5
Operation (5): The screw-down crown is easy to use, a stop-seconds mechanism facilitates accurate time setting, and the grooved rotating bezel turns easily. 5
Wearing comfort (5): The watch sits comfortably on the wrist with a supple leather strap 5
Movement (20): The movement is robustly constructed and has a long power reserve. Decorations are modest. 15
Rate results (10): Low average deviation and no excessively high beat error in the various positions. 8
Overall value (10): Moderate additional cost for a silver case at an appropriate price; good overall value 8
Total: 85 POINTS

This article originally appeared in the September-October 2021 issue of WatchTime.

On the wrist, the new S302 features a familiar 40mm Trip-Tick case water resistant to 300m, with its design reminiscent of both previous Supermarine launches and Bremont watches at large. A stepped, screw-down crown and contrasting use of beveled polishing and brushed finishing adds to the multi-dimensional aesthetic of the watch. On the primarily steel edition, a day/night green and blue aluminum bezel insert defines the look, while the two DLC models opt for a black ceramic bezel insert with contrasting cream numerals. The fully DLC edition is available on either a leather or rubber strap, while the other two models come equipped on either of those or a stainless steel bracelet; the strap profile on each model is slightly slimmer, with the new design providing a more comfortable fit on the wrist.

Underneath a domed sapphire crystal we come to the Supermarine display of the watch, presented in either a blue or black colorway depending on the model and with Super-LumiNova details throughout. Printed geometric indices mark each of the hours, while an outer curved minute ring with new orange-accented quarter markings work to increase quick-legibility of the display. A subtle date indicator adds daily utility towards the 3 o’clock position, while an orange-tipped GMT hands complements the local time hands, altogether providing a look as good looking as it is useful.

The new movement powering the travel diver is an updated edition of the previous modified Sellita caliber used in the original S302. Dubbed as a modified Calibre 11 1/2’’’ BE-932AV, the new mechanism features a 50-hour power reserve, up from 38-hours in the previous iteration of the watch. The automatic movement also features a chronometer rating, whereas the previous movement did not. According to the brand, the updated power reserve and accuracy rating are a result of improved “pallet efficiency and barrel optimization,” with these mechanical improvements to be expanded to Bremont’s other watches over time.

The new Bremont Supermarine GMT S302 will be available this fall, with the two-tone version limited to 400 editions and the other options to come as regular production models. Pricing for the new collection ranges from $3,750 to $4,450 depending on the model and strap configuration.

To learn more, visit Bremont, here.

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Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional
Tissot’s very large and robust dive watch is water-resistant to 600 meters and impresses with its irregular wave pattern, which resembles the surface of the sea in a strong swell. The hour markers, attached to the edge of the dial, float above it and call to mind surfers or sailboats that barely touch the water as they glide along its surface. The watch is available with a blue, turquoise or anthracite-colored dial. The case is equipped with an automatic helium valve for saturation diving.
Stainless steel, ceramic bezel, 46 mm, ETA C07.111, automatic, $1,025.

Breguet Marine 5517
Like all the watches launched since the collection’s last major refresh in 2017, the Marine 5517 maintains a classic, naval chronometer-inspired design, is distinguished by both luxurious and sporty elements, and hosts signature hallmarks of the collection such as Roman numerals, a 100-meter water resistance, and Breguet-style hands, to name a few.
Rose gold, 40 mm, Caliber 777A, automatic, $28,600.

Baume & Mercier Riviera
The Riviera that Baume & Mercier has now reactivated is inspired by a model from 1973. While it’s not a dive watch, it’s certainly a sporty companion for a vacation. The wave pattern on the dial is particularly architectural, but this in no way detracts from the overall impression made by this lighthearted accessory. The blue version with the matching rubber strap calls to mind the clear waters of the Mediterranean or South Seas. The pressure resistance to 100 meters is sufficient for boat trips, kite surfing and relaxing hours beside the pool.
Stainless steel, 42 mm, Sellita SW200, automatic, $2,500.

Mido Oceanstar 200C
Green has been popular in the watch world for a number of years, but the combination of fir green and maritime-inspired dial engraving looks quite unusual. Mido uses this daring combination in its Oceanstar line of dive watches. The number in the model’s name stands for the water resistance in meters and the “C” refers to the newly introduced ceramic bezel, which teams up with the sapphire crystal to protect the dial against scratches. There are even waves on the stainless-steel back, where they share the limelight with a starfish engraved in relief.
Stainless steel, ceramic bezel, 42.5 mm, ETA C07.621, automatic, $1,150.

Seiko Prospex SRPE07
Joining Seiko’s highly coveted “Save The Ocean” series, the SRPE07 “King Turtle” brought an improved bezel and large cyclops to the collection in 2020. The dial design is themed around Great White Sharks to mark the preservation and understanding of these beautiful creatures (there’s even a shark dorsal fin hidden near the 8 o’clock index).
Stainless steel, ceramic bezel, 45 mm, 4R36, automatic, $595.

Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400
The subtle wave pattern on the dial is the only bit of playfulness Oris allows in this extremely useful watch for professional divers. All other details are rigorously functional: the bezel’s entire scale glows in the dark, the Rotation Safety System allows the bezel to rotate only after the surrounding safety ring has been pulled up, and the water resistance to a depth of 1,000 meters is well beyond a casual diver’s deepest descent. These features, plus the well-thought-out bracelet with its loss-prevention and quick-extension mechanisms, almost make you glad to discover the nonfunctional pattern on the dial.
DLC-coated titanium, ceramic bezel, 49.5 mm, manufacture Calibre 400, automatic, $4,600.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300
The 43-mm version of the new Aquaracer has straight transverse grooves on its dial, while the 36-mm version shown here is more playful. The wave pattern boasts the softest, most curved shape of all the watches here and makes the dial almost look like a casually thrown piece of fabric. This small version of the Aquaracer is equally convincing in other details with water resistance to 300 meters, intensely radiant luminous material in green and blue, and a secure folding clasp with quick-extension mechanism.
Stainless steel, ceramic bezel, 36 mm, Calibre 5 based on Sellita Caliber SW200, automatic, $2,800.

The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 holds profound significance to the brand, echoing the pioneering spirit of the original Fifty Fathoms of 1953— one of the first dive watches— and the later MIL-SPEC edition that went to military markets in 1957. By blending traditional design elements with leading mechanical technology, this limited-edition masterpiece works to bridge the gap between the past and the present.

Crafted with precision and drawing on decades of dive watch engineering experience, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 boasts a 9K Bronze Gold case that’s water resistant to 300m. This exquisite alloy, enriched with gold, copper, silver, palladium, and gallium, not only exudes a captivating pink hue, but also ensures durability and skin-friendly wear while faithfully maintaining the 41.30mm diameter of the original MIL-SPEC edition. Additionally, the unidirectional rotating bezel features a black ceramic insert with vintage Super-LumiNova diving scale, paying homage to its iconic predecessor.

The watch’s matte black dial is adorned with printed Super-LumiNova indices and a matching pair of vintage-inspired hands, each featuring an aged cream color. The design seamlessly incorporates historic elements, including the moisture indicator towards the 6 o’clock position, which first introduced in the MIL-SPEC model of 1957. The timepiece is secured to the wrist with a two-tone NATO strap made from repurposed fishing nets, underlining Blancpain’s commitment to sustainability and ocean conservation.

At the heart of the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 beats the Blancpain 1154.P2 movement. Making use of a twin barrel system, this innovative movement boasts a 100-hour power reserve, while the integration of a silicon balance-spring ensures superior magnetism resistance, a crucial feature for diving watches. Notably for the first time in this model, Blancpain is offering a 1000-gauss version of the movement, further boosting its anti-magnetic credentials.

Limited to just 555 pieces, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 is priced at $32,000.

To learn more, visit Blancpain, here.

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