Blancpain entered the rarefied air of aviation-inspired luxury with its original, limited-edition Air Command, a revival of a 1950s military model that recently joined the manufacture’s regular collection. For the cover feature “Command Performance,” Mark Bernardo test-piloted one of the first examples of the new version, with a titanium case and sunburst blue dial.

For many collectors, the history of the dive watch starts in 1953 with the introduction of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner. Divers, however, already had to rely on water-resistant watches, decades before the commercialization of these two iconic models. In “Reaching New Depths,” Roger Ruegger takes a deep dive into how the history of underwater exploration and the evolution of the wristwatch are connected.

Rolex is “Off to New Heights” with its updated Explorer II, which marks the model’s 50th anniversary. Jens Koch takes a look at what the most recent version of the watch can offer collectors, explorers, and adventurers, in a hands-on test with original photos by Marcus Krüger.

The new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph in IWC’s unmistakable style rolled out onto the runway with a blue or green dial. The classic 41-mm case surrounds IWC’s manufacture Caliber 69385, and the new EasX-Change system makes it easy to switch one wristband with another. Martina Richter tests this “Flight Instructor,” while Olaf Köster provides photos.

Omega’s Speedmaster Chronoscope is a chronograph that accomplishes the rare feat of deftly deploying not one, not two, but three distinct scales on its dial and bezel, It’s the most unusual Speedy in a while, but how does it hold up as both tool watch and style object? Find out in Bernardo’s hands-on report, “Scaling New Heights.”

The new Premier Heritage B15 Duograph 42 is currently Breitling’s most elegant timepiece and an homage to the pioneering spirit of the company’s founders. Like its 1940s predecessor of the same name, it can record time intervals while breaking new ground as it goes. Richter gives this “Exquisite Sophisticate” a closer look.

In 2018, Nomos Glashütte equipped its Tangente with an intelligent date display called “update.” Alexander Krupp tested the new midnight-blue model to find out whether this in-house-made function is an “Update or Upgrade?”

Plus: WatchTime’s reporting on the 2021 GPHG Awards and Only Watch Auction results; a recap of the 2021 WatchTime New York collectors’ event, which returned in grand style after a year’s hiatus; reviews of dive watches from Seiko and Aquastar; interviews with Sinn managing director Lothar Schmidt and new Greubel Forsey CEO Antonio Calce; and more.

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• In 1996, master watchmaker Michel Parmigiani’s dedication to horology resulted in the launch of a new watch brand with a new credo and new aesthetics. The new Tonda PF collection is both an homage to Parmigiani Fleurier’s design aesthetics, and also the maison’s most forward-looking collection to date. Roger Ruegger explores this “Passion, Purity, and Precision” in our cover feature.

• Omega kicked off the year 2021 with a bang by elevating the legendary Moonwatch to Master Chronometer. Although this watch is equipped with the latest movement technology, detailed observations in “Master Moon,” Martina Richter’s comprehensive test feature, find that its exterior remains true to the design of the cult model.

• After it revolutionized pilots’-watch design with its dashboard-clock-inspired BR 01, one might have expected Bell & Ross to rest on the laurels of that flagship model but the watchmaker did anything but, turning to an array of other onboard aviation devices to produce the inventive Flight Instrument collection. Mark Bernardo spotlights these unusual timepieces in “Tools From the Dashboard.”

• TAG Heuer has brought its Aquaracer dive watch line back up to the surface and refined its design and technology. Does the new generation make the grade? Alexander Krupp provides the answers in “Resurfacing.”

• Women today have more options than ever when it comes to choosing their favorite watch. Dara Hinshaw’s “Especially for Her” is our annual roundup of new models designed for women, all with a sparkle and appeal all their own and each making for a perfect holiday gift..

• In honor of its 50-year chronograph history, Tudor issued the Black Bay Chrono — a subtle combination of traditional aesthetics and modern watchmaking. For the test feature “Easy Rider,” Richter found an authentic setting that reflects the close association of the timepiece to motor sports.

• After a decade and a half of the Big Bang, Hublot needed to evolve the line’s design — and achieved this with the Big Bang Integral, which Rüdiger Bucher reviews in the in-depth feature “Gray Excellence.”

Plus: Reviews of new watches from Citizen, Bremont, and Breitling; a showcase of limited editions celebrating the 140th anniversary of Seiko; a roundup of watches with dials inspired by nature; a Q&A with Moritz Grossmann CEO Christine Hutter; and more,

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• In 2021, Panerai returned to the field of chronography with several new releases in the Submersible and Luminor collections, with one of them even offering a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Roger Ruegger explores them all in the cover story, “Il Ritorno di Cronografo.”

• From its utilitarian roots in the 19th century, the tourbillon has evolved in the modern era to become the ultimate expression of watchmakers’ technical prowess and avant-garde creativity. Mark Bernardo traces this 220-year “Whirlwind Romance” in an in-depth historical essay.

• Rolex and Omega are renowned and admired for their dive watches. In direct comparison, which one of the two leading brands dives deeper, offers more value for the money, and performs better? Jens Koch seeks the answers in “Competition in the Sea.”

• The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Series 9 SLGH005, powered by the high-beat Caliber 9SA5, is inspired by the white Shirakaba birch trees that grow near the studio in Shizukuishi. In “The Beauty of Nature,” Martina Richter examines how nature and watchmaking are reflected in this latest creation.

• For its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has introduced an impressive fleet of Marine Torpilleur limited editions. In “Navigating Through the Years,” Ruegger sets sail with one of the collection’s most interesting pieces, a chronograph with an annual calendar on board.

• When it comes to utility, not many mechanical dive watches on the market can compete with the new Oris AquisPro Date (“Pro” as in professional), with the brand’s in-house Caliber 400. Alexander Krupp goes hands-on with “The Pro” in a comprehensive watch test.

• The official partnership between the TAG Heuer watch brand and the Porsche sports car manufacturer was a natural pairing — two companies linked by a strong friendship with common history, stories and values. Yet the news came as a shock; reason enough for the watch manufacturer to launch a special model — and for us to test it straight away in the feature “Among Friends.”

Plus: A showcase of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms collection; a hands-on review of Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, based on a U.S. Navy prototype from the 1950s; a test of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925; a roundup of watches with Roman numeral dials; and more,

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WatchTime decided to enter this year’s March-April issue. The now shortlisted magazine had already been well received by WatchTime’s most important jury, its readers (and it also was the most recent issue before the award show’s deadline). Among the many highlights of the issue was a cover feature spotlighting the newest additions to Bulgari’s record-breaking Octo Finissimo range. There was also Mark Bernardo‘s in-depth exploration of Porsche Design’s evolution into a full-fledged watch manufacture – in the words of WatchTime’s reader Mike Paduano, “the best writing he’s done — at least that I’ve read. He laid out the idea behind the concept for the brand and the history of the brand clearly and succinctly. […] Another reason why WT is still the best place to learn about the watch trade.”

Also in this issue: An in-depth look at the history of Doxa in the Swiss military, a story that took WatchTime’s editor-in-chief Roger Ruegger several months to research, and on an unofficial trip to one of Switzerland’s military museums. One reader’s feedback: “You surpassed yourself with the latest issue! Your article on Doxa and Swiss military divers… A hidden jewel (pun intended) inside WatchTime! A superb and fascinating history. A new (and seemingly unattainable) grail watch for the military collector.” This was followed by:

“My only complaint about your magazine: You are not a monthly.”

John Willheim

Next to several extensive reviews and news coverage, the issue also included an intriguing roundtable discussion with “Horological Honey Hunters.” In this story, Ruegger reached out to three collectors from different parts of the world to talk about their collections, the industry, waiting lists, and grail watches. And speaking of grails: Bernardo’s exclusive Q&A with Parmigiani Fleurier founder Michel Parmigiani can also be found in the March-April issue. Click here to download the issue from WatchTime’s online store, and here to subscribe to WatchTime.

This year’s Eddie & Ozzie Awards Gala will take place on Thursday, October 14, 2021 at 5:30 PM in the Metropolitan Pavilion, NYC.

• With close to 110,000 unique users on watchesandwonders.com, more than 12,000 visitors at the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, an estimated reach of 500 million people to date and close to 360,000 posts featuring the hashtag #watchesandwonders2021 across social media, blogs, and other online platforms, Watches & Wonders 2021 reached a record audience. Our editors compiled the highlights from 25 participating watch brands.

• The new Manero Minute repeater Symphony is Carl F.Bucherer’s most complicated watch to date. For the cover story, “The Sound of Lucerne,” Roger Ruegger and Mark Bernardo conducted a verbal sound check with No. 18 of the 88-piece limited edition.

• A faithful revival of its Art Deco masterpiece, the American 1921, and the opening of a new and ambitious flagship boutique in New York are just the latest overtures in Vacheron Constantin’s 190-year relationship with the American watch market. Mark Bernardo chronicles this shared history in “Vacheron Constantin’s American Century.”

• With the Portugieser Automatic 40, IWC Schaffhausen finally returns to the simple elegance of the original model from 1939. Alexander Krupp examines “The New Beauty” in an in-depth test feature.

• In “Now a King,” Martina Richter tests the new Tudor Royal, a watch both sporty and elegant and thus a great fit for many occasions. Remaining affordable thanks to its doing without an in-house caliber, the watch builds a bridge between the past and today.

• A. Lange & Söhne has unveiled a new white-gold variation of the Saxonia with its famous large date display. “Is this a reason to celebrate?” is the question Jens Koch strives to answer in “A Big Day,” his test of the German manufacture’s latest, luxurious version of the Saxonia Outsize Date.

• Hamilton recently introduced two “Grown Up” upgraded variants of the Khaki Navy Scuba Auto in 43-mm cases. WatchTime’s avid dive watch expert Roger Ruegger takes a closer look at the gradient blue dial execution (Ref. H82505140), providing hands-on insights and photos.

Plus: A spotlight on the genesis and growth of Chopard-owned haute horlogerie brand Ferdinand Berthoud, tests of the Sinn 105 UTC and Certina DS Chronograph Automatic, interviews with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid and MeisterSinger founder Manfred Bressler, the 12 winning watches from the 2021 Red Dot Design Awards, and more,

Click here to download the July-August 2021 issue from WatchTime’s online store, and here to subscribe to WatchTime.