In 1965, Oris launched a divers’ watch that was ultramodern for its time. It had a case that remained water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, a unidirectional rotatable bezel and large luminous numerals. Reissued 50 years later as the Divers Sixty-Five, it proves to be one of this manufacturer’s most successful new models – thanks in part to the still-unflagging popularity of the retro trend.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph is based on a watch from 1965.

Based on Oris’s First Divers’ Watch
The high-fidelity reissue of the three-handed watch from the 1960s was followed by a retro-modern facelift, various special models – also with innovative wristbands made of recycled plastic – and finally a chronograph. This model too was first released in 2018 as a limited special edition and, after a three-handed watch, was the second Divers Sixty-Five model to be dedicated to Carl Brashear, who became the U.S. Navy’s first amputee diver in 1948 and the first African-American seaman to earn certification as a master diver.

It’s well known that Oris honors noteworthy people with special timepieces and that this brand is committed to environmental protection, to saving the world’s oceans and to other philanthropic causes. What could be more appropriate to Carl Brashear’s biography than a divers’ watch that reflects the style of his era?

The special edition consists almost entirely of bronze, a material that’s currently in vogue in various timepieces, but bronze is used only for the unidirectional rotatable diver’s bezel of this 43-mm serially manufactured chronograph, our test watch. The outfit of the rotatable bezel has changed too. The former massive component with raised numerals has morphed into a blackened aluminum inlay with a flush minutes scale. The bezel clicks into place in 120 individual settings, which makes it difficult to adjust the bezel so it corresponds to the nearest minute with the scale along the dial’s periphery. The difficulty is further exacerbated because the highly domed curvature along the rim of the sapphire crystal tends to distort the view of the rose-gold markings on the black dial.

The black dial is dominated by broad hands and prominent hour markers.

The strongly curved contours of the crystal allude to the past and contribute to the timepiece’s retro charm. The original crystal was made of plastic in the 1960s, but nowadays the glass above the dial is crafted from scratch-resistant sapphire and given an anti-reflective coating on its underside.

The case’s diameter has grown from 36 to 43 mm over the years and is now made of stainless steel rather than the original chrome-plated brass. But with a water resistance of 100 meters, it isn’t quite as watertight as the cases of most other contemporary divers’ watches. Pressure resistance to 200 and even 300 meters are more in keeping with the current state of the art.

Of course, Oris doesn’t need to prove that this brand can build contemporary divers’ watches. Any doubts are immediately dispelled, for example, by the Oris Aquis or Prodiver model lines, both of which are professional devices with high resistance to pressure and diverse innovations within the collection. The fact that the Divers Sixty-Five can only withstand pressure of 100 meters should be interpreted as an homage to history and is acceptable in this line, even if the name “Divers” would initially suggest a more pressure-resistant case. Bathing, swimming, snorkeling and diving at shallow depths pose no problem at all for the Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph.

This model is an equally pleasant companion on terra firma. Its black dial is dominated by the broad hands and prominent applied indexes that characterize this line. All of the displays are generously filled with yellow Super-LumiNova “Old Radium.” This luminous material underscores the watch’s retro style by day and glows bright green in the dark. Also luminous at night are the hand on the subdial for the continuously running seconds, which shows at a glance that the movement is still running; the chronograph’s elapsed-minutes hand; and, of course, the orientation dot on the unidirectional rotatable divers’ bezel. Only the chronograph’s elapsed seconds remains dark, but every diver knows that the smallest unit of time isn’t very important in this sport, where minutes count most.

“Old Radium” luminous material accentuates the watch’s retro character and ensures good legibility.

Bronze, Retro and Bicompax Reflect Current Trends
When measuring an elapsing interval, the current number of elapsed minutes can be read on the black counter at 3 o’clock. This subdial is slightly recessed and bears anthracite-colored calibrations. The subdial for the continually running seconds is identically styled. It’s positioned diametrically across the dial at 9 o’clock.

Together with its counterpart at 3 o’clock, this results in the so-called bicompax chronograph arrangement, which is just as trendy as retro design nowadays. Retro and bicompax go together perfectly because a chronograph dial with only two counters similarly recalls the past. A bicompax arrangement also gives a dial the clarity and tidiness that are likewise increasingly in demand these days. This fidelity to the past is further accentuated by the absence of a date display and the presence of both a screw-down crown modeled after its original counterpart and little capped push-buttons to operate the chronograph.

The chronograph’s functions can be triggered by pressing the corresponding buttons. The crown can be screwed and unscrewed very conveniently and protrudes quite far from the case in its hand-setting position. The buttons and crown operate Oris’s self-winding Caliber 771, which is based on the Sellita SW510 in its reduced version without date display and without a 12-hour chronograph counter. It runs with only average accuracy and, in some positions, showed even larger deviations of more than 10 seconds per day. Although the mostly unadorned caliber remains hidden behind a massive, opaque, fully threaded back, it is, of course, equipped with Oris’s typical red rotor.

The 43-mm case, domed sapphire crystal, and bronze-and-aluminum bezel blend retro and modern elements.

The Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph can be worn with either a leather strap a or stainless-steel bracelet: the leather strap reaffirms the retro style with its stitching and buckle, while the stainless-steel bracelet radiates a sporty, modern charm. The connecting pieces firmly attach the case to the metal wristband, which is supple, soft and culminates in a one-sided folding clasp. Only the process of shortening the bracelet proves somewhat cumbersome because the wristband’s links are pinned rather than screwed together.

Two Expressive Outfits
The bottom line: anyone who is looking for an expressive retro watch will find it in the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph. This model is convincing thanks to authentic details, which it realizes in a modern way. We would suggest that Oris make some improvements in the fine adjustment of the movement and a simple system to switch from one wristband to another would also be welcome – because even if you wear it with the stainless-steel bracelet, this watch always makes a strong impression.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Oris SA, Ribigasse 1, 4434 Hölstein, Switzerland
Reference number: 771 7744 4354 8 21 18
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chonograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, 30-minute counter), bezel is rotatable in one direction only
Movement: Oris 771 based on Sellita SW 510, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, gold-plated nickle balance, Nivarox hairspring, bipartite index fine adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, 48-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm
Case: Stainless steel/bronze, domed sapphire crystal anti-reflectively treated on its underside, water resistant to 100 meters
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless steel with one-sided stainless-steel folding clasp
Rate results (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours):
On the wrist +7.2
Dial up +5.3 / +8.4
Dial down +6.1 / +8.7
Crown up +10.2 / +11.6
Crown down +7.5 / +12.3
Crown left +3.7 / +7.3
Greatest deviation 6.5 / 5.0
Average deviation +6.6 / +9.7
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 314° / 298°
Hanging positions 292° / 270°
Dimensions: Diameter = 43.19 mm, height = 16.44 mm, weight = 162.0 grams
Variations: With leather strap: $4,000
Price: $4,250

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is now available in rose gold.

Patek Philippe has reinvented an aspect of itself with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. When the Geneva-based company introduced the first model in white gold in 2015, it was met with great excitement. As a unique specimen that differs from the highly desirable sporty models in its Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek is known primarily for its classical designs. Now a traditional brand like Patek Philippe can find inspiration from its own rich history without creating something entirely new. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time traces its origins from a lesser-known part of the company’s history – its own pilots’ watches. The Ref. 5524R recalls the design of vintage Patek Philippe pilots’ watches from the 1930s with its bold luminescent numerals and hands.

Unlike the white-gold version with its matte blue dial and light-colored case, which gives the watch a decidedly sporty look, the 2018 rose-gold model emphasizes elegance – supported by the warm tone of the case, the sunburst finish on the dial and its gradual tonal change from brown to black, plus other details like applied rose-gold numerals with luminescent coating and a rose-gold prong buckle. In combination, these features present a unique and elegant pilots’ watch. Vintage-inspired numerals and two crown-like pushers on the left side provide added character and show that this timepiece offers an extra function – in this case, an easy-to-use second time zone.

Fine hand craftsmanship is plainly visible in the in-house Caliber 324 S C FUS.

This so-called “GMT” function is very often found in watches, usually with a dedicated 24-hour hand that is adjusted in hourly increments via the crown. If you can adjust a 12-hour hand independently, it proves to be more practical for travel. But this means pulling the crown out to the appropriate position, which isn’t always so easy. If you pull the crown out to the wrong position, you may end up changing the minute hand by mistake and losing the correct time. And, the hand for the second time zone may often only be able to be adjusted forward. If, for example, you are traveling to the next time zone to the west, you would have to move the hour hand 23 hours ahead, which would cause the date to advance, which must then also be corrected by advancing it 30 days.

Time Zone Setting
Patek Philippe has found a solution to these problems. Essentially, this involves the Travel Time’s two pushers, which allow the local time to be adjusted in two directions, and the two day/night indicators on the dial that enable both times to be read intuitively in a 12-hour format. Also, the date advances in both directions when the local time is set so that no correction is needed here either. Again, like our example above, if traveling to the next time zone to the west, pressing the upper pusher once will show both times correctly as well as the date. In contrast to a 24-hour hand for the home time, Patek Philippe uses two 12-hour hands, with the advantage of being able to “hide” the second hand when not traveling, thus making the dial tidier and even easier to read.

This isn’t the first time this movement has been used with this function – it has powered classic Calatrava models and been used in the Aquanaut and in the Nautilus in combination with a chronograph. Now for the first time, Patek Philippe has equipped the Calatrava Pilot with a system designed to prevent accidental adjustment of the time zone. The corrective pushers can be locked in position by turning them one-quarter clockwise. A one-quarter counterclockwise turn releases them for use – a cool feature that bestows the pushers with their mysterious aura. There’s a low risk of activating the pushers in an unlocked position, especially since a gold watch is not generally subjected to hard use. If the quarter-turn is too complicated, it is also entirely possible to leave the pushers in the unlocked position.

Exceptionally fine finishing is apparent in every last detail, even under close inspection with a loupe.

But pressing the pushers and the bayonet-type lock has a pleasant feel and can hardly be seen as uncomfortable or difficult. Both are easy to use and work smoothly. The pushers have a good pressure point so it is easy to tell when the hand has advanced, even without looking at the dial. Patek Philippe supplies a special stylus for adjusting the date at a recessed button. We find it better to set the date using the pusher for the local time. This may take longer but eliminates the risk of scratching the gold case with the stylus.

The crown simplifies the operation by having only one pulled position. Unfortunately, the Travel Time does not have a hack mechanism for more accurate setting of the time. Patek Philippe has added this practical function to its newer movements – it’s too bad there’s not one here since the hands that indicate the time are so easy to read. High contrast and a generous amount of luminescent coating on the hour and minutes hands and the numerical hour markers ensure optimal legibility. Both day/night indicators are clearly labeled and are easy to recognize by color: dark blue for night and white for day.

The brown sunburst dial gives the watch an unmistakably elegant look.

Movement View
There’s also plenty to see on the back, thanks to the transparent sapphire caseback. The in-house movement 324 S C FUS with self-winding mechanism sports a gold oscillating weight with circular graining. The bridges are decorated with a côtes de Genève finish and beveled and polished edges. The screw heads are carefully polished in-house by Patek Philippe. This is yet another indication of why Patek Philippe watches demand such high prices – there’s an impressive degree of handcrafting and manual finishing in each timepiece.

Here are some highlights and innovations: the Spiromax hairspring is made of Silinvar, which is derived from temperature-resistant silicon with an oxidized outer layer. This allows the hairspring to remain virtually impervious to temperatures between -10 and +60° Celsius, produced using a photolithographic process on wafer-like integrated circuitry. We were given the opportunity to test this extremely sturdy spring. Unlike a metal spring, it can be pulled far out of its original shape, but still consistently return to its original form. Impacts also have little effect. Only by pulling the spring almost completely straight with tweezers did it finally break into many pieces.

That the base movement itself is from an earlier generation can be seen from the relatively low power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. For some time now, Patek Philippe has relied on the Gyromax balance and fine regulation via poising weights, which allows the hairspring to expand and contract freely for improved results. The Patek Philippe Seal sets standards for decoration as well as strict specifications for rate accuracy. These watches must show average rate results of -3 to +2 seconds per day. Their watchmakers adjust the watches in all six positions, which is rare in the industry. On the timing machine, the Calatrava Pilot showed a superior average rate of +1.5 seconds per day. The maximum deviation between the various positions, at 8 seconds, is only average.

The silicon hairspring always returns to its original form.

But the quality of finishing of the case, dial, hands and strap is exceptional in every way. Close inspection, even when using a watchmaker’s loupe, reveals flawlessly polished surfaces on the case, a fine sunburst finish on the dial and a perfectly stitched calfskin strap that wraps around the wrist very comfortably. Although at 42 mm, the diameter of the case is large for Patek Philippe, it sits nicely on the wrist. The prong buckle matches the pilots’ watch scheme, is nice and flat when fastened, and is easy to use. Generally, we prefer a prong buckle of this type to most folding clasps, which often either press into the arm or are difficult to operate.

A less exciting feature of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is its price of $49,560, but this is still within the normal range for a gold Patek Philippe watch with complications. For this price, the buyer can be assured of superior finishing and excellent value. Even though the Calatrava Pilot does not achieve the same aftermarket prices as the steel Aquanaut Travel Time (which can reach almost double the new purchase price), there is no immediate 30-percent depreciation that one may see with other brands.

Our test watch convinced us in every way – with its attractive, easily recognizable and slightly sporty design, the practical and easy-to-use second time zone with ingenious lock-down pushers, plus its superb execution and finishing in every last detail. There are no notable weaknesses, and for travel, it proves itself to be simple to use and easy to read. The price is appropriate and is justified by retaining its high value. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time can be recommended as an excellent travel watch, and not just for air travel alone.

The new clasp is a perfect match for the pilots’ watch design.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe SA, Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire 141, 1228 Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland
Reference number: 5524R
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone, day/night display for home and local time, pointer date
Movement: In-house movement 324 S C FUS, automatic, 28,800 vph, 29 jewels, quick-set date via recessed push button, poising weights on Gyromax balance wheel, Spiromax hairspring (Silinvar), Incabloc shock absorber, column wheel, diameter = 31 mm, height = 4.9 mm, 35-to-45-hour power reserve
Case: Rose gold, flat sapphire crystal without anti-glare treatment, fully threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window, water resistant to 60 meters
Strap and cla­­sp: Calfskin strap with rose-gold prong buckle
Rate results (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up +6
Dial down +2
Crown up 0
Crown down +1
Crown left +2
Crown right -2
Greatest deviation 8
Average deviation +1.5
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 276°
Hanging positions 249°
Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm, height = 10.8 mm, weight = 152 g
Price: $49,560

SCORES:
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Beautifully stitched calfskin strap with high-quality pronged buckle 9
­­­Operation (5):  The crown and pushers are easy to use. A stylus is provided for the recessed date pusher. 4
Case (10):  Flawlessly polished surfaces and cleanly locking pushers 9
Design (15):  Patek Philippe is forging a new path with this sporty pilots’ watch design. 14
Legibility (5): Easy to read thanks to good contrast and generous luminescent coating. 5
Wearing comfort (10):  Case, strap and buckle all fit very comfortably on the wrist. 10
Movement (20):  Excellent decorations, fine regulator and patented silicon hairspring, but no hack mechanism. 18
Rate results (10): Adjusted in six positions, low deviation in plus range, but notable difference between the various positions. 7
Overall value (15):  Expensive, but offers a lot for the price. Excellent value retention. 13
Total: 89 POINTS

The official partnership between the TAG Heuer watch brand and the Porsche sports car manufacturer was a natural choice. These two companies have been linked by a strong friendship with common history, stories and, above all, values for years. Yet the news came as a shock. Reason enough for the watch manufacturer to launch a special model and for us to test it straight away.

Compared to other current TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 models, the new Porsche Chronograph is impressive thanks to its closed dial, to which the admiring eye inevitably remains glued like a hot tire to asphalt. The seemingly ordinary anthracite-colored dial is not pierced, but nonetheless is very special. Roughened like an asphalt racetrack, this unique texture was given to this special Carrera model, our test watch, to symbolize TAG Heuer’s affinity to motor sports and the new partnership between TAG Heuer and Porsche.

For the same reason, the glossy black and scratch-resistant ceramic bezel, which would otherwise bear the word “tachymetre,” is engraved with the name “Porsche” in red letters patterned after the original typeface. Numerous details of the stopwatch function are also in red: the tips of all chronographic hands, certain areas within the elapsed-minutes and elapsed-hours counters, and the 15-second markings of the elapsed-second scale along the edge of the dial. Like red brake calipers on a car, here they symbolize sportiness and highlight the stopwatch function.

Carrera Brought Heuer and Porsche Together
In addition to the characteristic color scheme of red, black and gray, the numbers on the watch’s dial also refer to the Porsche design code and recall the instrument panels on high-end racing cars. The fact that these appliqués mark the minutes and seconds rather than the hours, as they do on other Carrera models, is only logical for this special edition, which is conceived as a tribute to motorsports. The numerals glow bright green in the dark, as do other triangular indexes and the bar-shaped hands that indicate the main time. But when the lights go out, the continually running seconds at 6 and the chronograph’s elapsed-time indicators are unreadable.

The Carrera name is relatively inconspicuous below the 12, or rather below the 60, which indicates the 60-second position at the full minute. Carrera is the connective element between these two brands, whose paths have crossed again and again in fascinating ways for decades. Carrera means “race” in Spanish, and it was auto racing that first brought Porsche and Heuer together. Ferdinand Anton Ernst Porsche, known as “Ferry,” joined his father’s design business in 1931 at the age of 22. In 1948, he launched the 356 No. 1 Roadster sports car, the first vehicle built under the Porsche name and the foundation for the car brand named for the family. Porsche quickly made a name for itself in motorsports, including a class victory in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana. In honor of its successful participation in this race, Porsche gave the name “Carrera” to the most powerful engine in its fleet.

Edouard Heuer’s great-grandson Jack also used the Carrera name for a chronograph that he developed in 1963, which enabled racing drivers to tell the time at a glance in the heat of the action. Jack Heuer also led the development of the Heuer Monaco, the first waterproof automatic chronograph with a square case. Its name paid tribute to the Mon-aco Grand Prix and the famous Monte Carlo Rally, which Porsche’s legendary 911 model won three years in a row from 1968 to 1970.

Later there were further connections between Porsche and Heuer, or TAG Heuer, as the Swiss watchmaker has been known since it was sold to the TAG Group in the mid-1980s. The two brands collaboratively developed and produced the TAG Porsche engine, which powered the McLaren team to three consecutive Formula 1 world championships, with Niki Lauda behind the wheel in 1984 and with Alain Prost in the driver’s seat in 1985 and 1986. Since 1999, the relationship between the two companies has grown even closer , thanks to their cooperation in motor sports events, such as the Porsche Carrera Cup, the Supercup and the Endurance World Championship. TAG Heuer was one of the founders of the Formula E championship, for which Porsche set up its own Formula E team in 2019, with TAG Heuer as the namesake and official timekeeping partner. Two years later, this became the official brand partnership, which seems as though it has existed for years. Joint projects are planned under the motto, “Porsche and TAG Heuer: Two histories — one passion.”

The new chronograph is worn either with a black calfskin strap with handmade decorative stitching that recalls both the interior of a Porsche sports car and a Carrera racetrack or with a stainless-steel bracelet made of H-shaped links, which forms an integrated connection with the angular case via fixed connectors. Both wristbands are equipped with a robust, high quality, folding clasp.

A fully threaded screw-in caseback with a window of sapphire seals the underside of the polished stainless-steel case, which resists pressure to 10 bar. The transparent crystal offers an unobstructed view of still-young, automatic manufacture Calibre Heuer 02. The colors red, black and gray come into play once again in a color scheme that’s reminiscent not only of Porsche, but also of earlier Heuer models. The newly designed winding rotor in black pays homage to the Porsche steering wheel. It winds the mainspring in only one direction of rotation; when it turns in the other direction, it makes a quiet idling sound that some connoisseurs find unpleasant. But TAG Heuer consciously opted for a unidirectional automatic winding mechanism with a ratchet wheel because it reduces both the total number of components and, more importantly, the overall height of the movement. The comparatively small red column wheel stands out at the very edge, accompanied by the caliber’s steel (gray) bridges, wheels, levers and springs. Together with vertical coupling, the column wheel ensures that elapsing intervals are measured with precision and reliability.

A Powerful Engine for a Sports Watch
The development of Calibre Heuer 02 began in 2011. It debuted under the name Calibre 1969 in 2013, but was soon renamed CH-80, after its remarkably lengthy 80-hour power reserve, which it achieves with only one barrel.

In the following years, however, TAG Heuer had to optimize the movement. The goal was to create a robust and reliable chronograph caliber that could be manufactured as cost effectively as possible. The caliber’s dimensions of 31 mm in diameter and 6.5 mm in height are identical to those of the El Primero, which is produced by Zenith, one of TAG Heuer’s sister brands in the LVMH Group. However, the slim design of Calibre 1969 resulted in some problems. In addition to the unidirectional self-winding mechanism, it also required a thin chronograph bridge. The winding mechanism was adequately efficient, but the slender bridge couldn’t cope with the force of the chronograph’s switching operations and became deformed. The new and sturdier design adds 0.4 mm to the movement’s height for an overall thickness of 6.9 mm.

In addition to the column wheel, the chronograph bridge is one of the few components that are screwed to the base plate. Other components, such as stamped levers to start, stop, block and zero the chronograph, as well as springs to hold components in place or exert pressure, are either plugged or hooked into place. The elimination of screws shortens the assembly time and reduces the total number of parts to only 233. The gearing in the winding and hand-setting system also called for improvement because clicking noises were caused by gears that did not mesh deeply enough. The semi-jumping date mechanism likewise underwent optimization. The current version is so secure that it cannot be damaged if its user mistakenly tries to manually reset the date while the mechanism is in the midst of its automatic switching process. To protect the mechanism, the system locks, and the date must be manually advanced by turning the crown after having pulled it to its center position. When the watch is running, the rather small date display at the 6 begins to advance about 30 to 40 minutes before midnight.

TAG Heuer cooperates with the specialist Atokalpa for the oscillating and escapement system, which is paced at 4 Hz. The Isograph hairspring, which premiered two years ago, is not yet deployed. TAG Heuer’s CEO Frédéric Arnault explains that the Isograph is still very expensive to manufacture and is therefore currently only used in high-end products. However, the conventional system also achieves good, well-balanced rates in the chronometer range, which is not the only thing our test proved.

Heuer Calibre 02 debuted in 2016 as the chronometer-certified Heuer Calibre 02-T inside the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon. In 2017, the new manufacture movement without a tourbillon appeared in the retro model Autavia Calibre Heuer 02. In 2018, it was integrated into the Carrera and finally in 2019, into the Monaco. It has established itself as an excellent high-performance engine for timepieces inspired by motor sports.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: TAG Heuer SA, Rue Louis-Joseph Chevrolet 6a, 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
Reference number: CBN2A1F.BA0643
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date display, chronograph (central elapsed-seconds hand, counters for 30 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed hours), tachymeter scale
Movement: Calibre Heuer 02, automatic, 28,800 vph, 33 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hairspring, index and eccentric screw fine adjustment, Kif shock absorption, 80-hour power reserve, diameter = 31.0 mm, height = 6.90 mm
Case: Stainless-steel case, curved sapphire crystal, doubly anti-reflective (above dial), sapphire crystal in caseback, water resistant to 100 m
Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet, folding clasp opens on one side only
Rate results (deviations in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours):
On the wrist +1.5
Dial up +0.3 / +0.1
Dial down +0.9 / +0.8
Crown up −2.7 / −1.7
Crown down +7.5 / +8.2
Crown left +2.1 / +3.4
Greatest deviation 10.2 / 9.9
Average deviation +1.6 / +2.2
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 309° / 292°
Hanging positions 267° / 246°
Dimensions: Diameter = 43.25 mm, lug width = 21 mm integrated, height =
15.25 mm, weight = 192.0 grams
Variations: With calfskin strap (Ref. CBN2A1F.FC6492, $5,850)
Price: $6,050

SCORES:
Wristband and clasp (max. 10 points): Handsome wristband, comfortable clasp 9
Case (10): High quality case with facets, two sapphire crystals, threaded caseback, ceramic bezel, matching push-pieces and crown 8
Dial (10): The design features elements from the Porsche racing world, exclusive “asphalt” dial, special appliqués. 9
Design (15): Successful translation of Porsche racing design codes with red, gray and black, special numerals and optional leather strap 13
Legibility (5): The time display dominates, even at night; the chronograph function is not legible in the dark but is easy to read during the day; date display is small and difficult to read. 4
Operation (5): Crown is easy to use, chronograph pushers have firm and secure pressure points, but the steel parts of the bracelet are pinned. 4
Wearing comfort (5): The case is quite tall and the watch is heavy, especially when worn with the stainless-steel bracelet; massive clasp. 4
Movement (20): The optimized manufacture caliber has proven its mettle in everyday use; secure basic construction with reliable switching for the chronograph and the date; long- lasting power reserve; special rotor. 17
Rate results (10): Although this is not a certified chronometer, it keeps time with very good, balanced rate values in the chronometer-worthy range; the amplitudes remain stable, also when the chronograph is running. 9
Overall value (10): The special design celebrates the partner-ship with Porsche, it implements Porsche’s design codes; the price is fair. 8
Total: 85 POINTS

The term smartwatch is a general one, as there are many different ways to express this concept. Brands like Sequent and Frederique Constant take the analog approach, while Montblanc goes full-blown digital, and all of them have an app for more detailed insights and control. The Pininfarina Hybrid takes the middle road and combines an analog setup with a small display.

The name Pininfarina is, for most people, closely connected to the world of cars, in particular that of Ferrari. However, as a design studio, they have also had their hand in quite a few different objects, including watches. On the other end of the spectrum, they also work together with Bovet, but they wanted something more accessible for their Hybrid watch and teamed up with Globics Technology Limited. As one of the leading companies when it comes to wearable devices, they have the background and knowledge that, combined with the design capabilities of Pininfarina, should result in a winning formula.

At first, I was slightly disappointed by the overall design, which is a bit reminiscent of Panerai, in terms of the size and the cushion-shaped. The technology and the battery needed to make a smartwatch work require a lot of space, so I understand Pininfarina went this route. The drilled lugs are a nice touch, but it is the dial that gives this watch the majority of its character. It is nice to look at with its different textures, circular grain at the center, and distinct hour markers. Its color is captivating and hard to describe because light affects it significantly.

The Pininfarina Hybrid watch is one that needs to be experienced in the metal, as only then will you notice the tight fit of everything and overall exceptional build quality. This is also where I found that the strap was not at the same level. While good enough for its price point, I can see owners of the Pininfarina Hybrid watch switching it out for something else, which will bring it on par with the timepiece itself and make it also look even more expensive than it actually is.

What I liked especially was the combination of the analog display with the digital porthole at twelve o’clock. It not only gives a clean look, but the information is also nicely dosed. The display is very clear and comes with fun icons that help navigate the menus in a fun way. The technology is up to par, allowing for activity and sleep tracking, and features also ECG and SpO2 measurements. An app is also mandatory for smartwatches, and the one for the Pininfarina Hybrid is extensive yet easy to navigate. The same can be said for the crown on the watch, which gives a lot of feedback, allowing you to easily scroll through the menus and functions. For some, the hands even move nicely out of the way, allowing you a clear view on the display. While the connection with the phone is also swift and easy, and the power reserve ample, I wish the subdial at six o’clock would be involved in more functions, like Sequent does with their watches. Granted, you don’t really need it, but it will add to the experience.

Priced at $399,- the Pininfarina Hybrid watch is a fair deal, and while not perfect, it has a fun configuration combining hands with the porthole display. A big plus is that it is also easy to use and comes with a comprehensive app, which makes it a nice stop in my quest to explore the world of smartwatches.

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Rolex GMT-Master II, Ref. 126710BLNR

The blue-and-black color combination on the bezel of this Rolex GMT-Master II led its fans to call it “Batman.” The current version with a Jubilee bracelet and a new movement was introduced in 2019. Its predecessor with these same colors appeared in 2013, and was the first Rolex model with a two-tone ceramic bezel. This particular color combination did not exist previously. The first GMT-Master II of 1954 sported the blue-and-red 24-hour scale and was later called “Pepsi” because of this color combination. These colors were first selected to more clearly distinguish between the day and night hours in the second time zone. These and other specifications originated from Pan Am Airways, who requested the model. New jet airplanes were making intercontinental flights shorter and more popular, and with the increasing number of flights came a rise in the desire for watches with a dual time zone. The popularity of the GMT-Master grew from its pilots’-watch flair and its colorful and immediately recognizable bezel. Later, there were more reserved versions like the black-and-red “Coke” model.

Today the GMT-Master II in steel is offered in two versions that differ only in the color of their bezels: the Pepsi and the Batman, our test watch. Both feature a new movement and the five-row Jubilee bracelet that was once reserved for Datejust models only. Rolex previously equipped the GMT-Master II with the sportier three-row Oyster bracelet on the gold and Rolesor (steel and gold) GMT-Master II models. Rolex designed the Jubilee bracelet in 1945 for the Datejust; but as early as 1959, the GMT-Master was also available with an optional Jubilee bracelet. Like the Oyster bracelet for the GMT-Master II, the inner links are polished and the outer links have a brushed finish.

Batman or Pepsi? The color combination on the Batman is somewhat more reserved; the Pepsi more closely adheres to the original.

The Jubilee bracelet is very comfortable to wear. Its small links lie snugly and do not pull delicate wrist hair. The Oyster bracelet is also comfortable thanks to its curved links. The bracelet and the case are still made of non-corrosive 904L stainless steel, which Rolex has recently begun calling “Oystersteel.”

Secure Lock
Rolex does not pair an Oyster clasp with the Jubilee bracelet here as it does with the Datejust watches but instead uses the Oysterlock folding clasp like it does on its sport models. It has an additional safety bar but looks very similar – both have the Easylink extension that can lengthen the bracelet by up to 5 mm. This practical mechanism is helpful when higher temperatures or physical activity may cause wrist size to increase. A half link can be folded out from the clasp to make the bracelet longer with no obvious difference in its appearance.

The high-quality clasp on the Jubilee bracelet is nearly perfect, both in its workmanship and in its ease of operation. The fold-out safety bar blends in when shut. Opening the safety bar by lifting the Rolex crown reveals a lever that is also easy to lift for opening the clasp fully.

The elegant Jubilee bracelet has a practical Oysterlock folding clasp and safety bar. The Easylink extension gives it some air to breathe.

The winding crown is also simple to use to wind the watch after unscrewing it from its locked position. In the first pulled position, the normal hour hand can be advanced forward or back in hourly increments to set a new zone time. The date will also follow in either direction. In the second pulled position, the minutes hand can be adjusted (and with it, the 24-hour and the normal hour hand). Thus, the 24-hour hand is best used for the home time and/or for the GMT for pilots, while the normal hour hand shows the local time. The GMT-Master II is well known for this practical travel watch function. Many other watch manufacturers offer only a quick adjustment of the 24-hour hand, which is inconvenient when traveling.

In addition, with the GMT-Master II, it is possible to set another time zone temporarily using the bezel. For example, if you are in the U.S. and are working with a company in Europe, simply turn the bezel so that the GMT-Master II shows the time in the desired time zone to know the availability of your business contact at a glance. All in all, the GMT-Master II offers extremely useful time zone functions.

Rolex Research
At its beginning, in 1954, the bezel of the GMT-Master II was made of Plexiglas and the color and the white scale were printed on the underside. From 1959 to 2007, Rolex produced the bezel in aluminum, with the colors applied via an anodizing process. This was followed by a track made of zirconium oxide ceramic and with it, problems with the color. Monochromatic bezels were standard since two-tone tracks appeared to be a technical impossibility. But Rolex persisted in its research and found a solution for the first Batman by 2013. It developed and patented a process for the monobloc bezel that added a metallic salt on one half of the bezel prior to heat treatment in a kiln. The final colors were produced by sintering in a kiln at 1,600 degrees Celsius for more than 24 hours.

Even close examination reveals the superior finishing, like the color transition on the bezel.

A second problem was achieving the desired red color for the blue-and-red Pepsi bezel, since there is no mineral-based pigment that produces a rich red. After years of research, Rolex came to rely on a ceramic based on aluminum oxide and added chromium oxide, magnesium oxide and a rare-earth oxide to produce the red half of the ceramic bezel. For the blue color, one half of the bezel was saturated again with a metallic salt solution prior to sintering.

The bezels of the Batman and the Pepsi are based on different ceramic substances, zirconium oxide and aluminum oxide, which explains why the blue colors on the two bezels look so different. On our test watch, the blue appears much brighter than on the new Pepsi model. However, the incident light plays a major role on our perception of color and as always, there are slight differences among the Pepsi bezels.

Both materials forming the track condense and shrink during the sintering process and must be machined with diamond tools to the exact measurements. To ensure that the numerals remain perfectly legible, the entire ring is coated with platinum using a PVD process and then carefully polished to leave the precious metal behind in the recessed dots and numerals. Both processes have been patented by Rolex. In addition to its scratch resistance, the ceramic bezels have the additional advantage of being UV resistant and do not fade.

The blue hues on the bezel rings of the Batman and the Pepsi are clearly different. No wonder: they are based on different ceramics.

Extended Power Reserve
As with the Pepsi, the new time-zone Caliber 3285 is used in the updated Batman. With the exception of the chronograph, all Rolex self-winding watches are powered by the Caliber 31xx (the old version) or the new Caliber 32xx with a power reserve of 70 hours rather than 48. Unlike the Caliber 3186, the new movement has a ball bearing for the rotor. The proprietary Paraflex shock absorber is designed for improved performance in the case of impacts. But the greatest benefit for the wearer is the increased power reserve – instead of two days the watch now provides almost three full days of power, due primarily to the more efficient Chronergy escapement. The geometry of the pallet fork and escape wheel were optimized and, with the LIGA galvanic process, Rolex could create much lighter-weight cut-out components. The escapement mechanism is made of a nickel-phosphorous alloy to be impervious to magnetic fields.

Unchanged are the well-known features of Rolex movements: an extremely sturdy balance bridge (instead of a one-sided balance cock), the free-sprung hairspring with overcoil made of a paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy, and its fine regulator with its Microstella weights on the balance wheel. The movement can be regulated using a special tool without removing the movement from the case.

Rolex improved the caliber in the core virtues of accuracy, longevity and robustness. Decorations include a sunburst finish. Hand engraving is not present nor was it expected. The new movement can be easily identified by a small detail on the dial: a tiny Rolex crown is inserted between the two words “Swiss Made.”

The new Caliber 3285 now has a three-day power reserve, an improved escapement and a ball-bearing rotor.

As always at Rolex, the official chronometer certificate from the Swiss testing agency COSC confirms the high level of precision at various temperatures and positions. The company’s own in-house standards specify an even stricter adjustment of the daily average between -2 and +2 seconds per day. On the timing machine, our test watch met these higher expectations and showed an average deviation of only -0.5 seconds. All six positions remained between -2 and +2 seconds and the greatest positional deviation was only 4 seconds. There was a manageable drop in amplitude between the vertical and horizontal positions.

The price of the GMT-Master II, $9,250, remains in the mid range. There are more economical manufacture alternatives with a second time zone and also more expensive ones. But hardly any other manufacturer can keep pace with Rolex in terms of value retention. Since May 2019, this new edition has been available in very limited quantities – and in the next several years interested buyers will need to plan on longer wait times for delivery.

Rolex has hit the bull’s eye with the new edition of the black-and-blue GMT-Master II in steel. Even though the design has undergone only minor changes over the last 60 years, the watch has become a classic that appeals in its timelessness rather than seeming dated. The Batman colors are more reserved than the Pepsi with its bright red color and can easily be worn with a suit. The Jubilee bracelet matches the watch well. Rolex has also improved the technology with the new movement that offers the benefit of an extended power reserve.

Functionally Rolex offers more than most other manufacturers – from the bracelet extension to its time-zone adjustment. Also, accuracy, legibility and wearing comfort are at the highest levels. We would prefer to see a transparent caseback – and that Rolex would produce enough timepieces to satisfy demand.

The Jubilee bracelet’s small lugs nestle comfortably on the wrist.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Rolex S.A., Rue François Dussaud 3-5, CH-1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Reference number: 126710BLNR
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date; second time zone
Movement: In-house Caliber 3285, automatic, chronometer; 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, hack mechanism, quick-date adjustment in hourly increments, Paraflex shock absorber, Glucydur balance with Microstella regulating screws, blue Parachrom hairspring with overcoil, COSC certification, 70-hour power reserve
Case: Stainless steel 904L, flat sapphire crystal with Cyclops magnifier, no anti-reflective coating, screw-down Triplock crown, fully threaded 904L caseback, water resistant to 100 meters
Strap and cla­­sp: Jubilee bracelet made of 904L stainless steel with safety folding clasp and extension piece
Rate results (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up +1
Dial down +2
Crown up -2
Crown down -1
Crown left -1
Crown right -2
Greatest deviation 4
Average deviation -0.5
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 280°
Hanging positions 247°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm, height = 12.1 mm, weight = 154 grams
Price: $9,250

SCORES:
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Excellent finishing of new bracelet with a refined clasp. 9
­­­Operation (5): Setting the local time is simple. A hack mechanism is helpful for synchronizing the time. 5
Case (10): Nicely finished case with reliable Triplock crown and scratch- resistant bezel. 9
Design (15): A classic in the reserved blue-black color combination. 14
Legibility (5): Large markers and high contrast ensure good legibility during the day, glows brightly at night. 5
Wearing comfort (10): The fine links of the bracelet ensure superior wearing comfort. The integrated extension is very helpful. 10
Movement (20): The sturdy, accurate and long-wearing in-house movement now provides a much longer power reserve. 19
Rate results (10): Very low average deviation, but in the minus range. Moderate deviation between different positions. 9
Overall value (15): The price is acceptable and value retention is extremely good – at least for the buyer who finds one at an reasonable price. 13
Total: 93 POINTS