The wording of the watch hints at its historical background, with “FXD” referring to the robust “FiXeD” strap bars of the case. Directly machined into the main body, they increase robustness and reliability and were part of the requirements of U.S. military specification for diver’s watches. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette.

An essential feature inspired by other famous Tudor watches of the most notably early Submariners, the crown guards have a pointed shape. It goes without saying that the characteristic square hour markers and angular hands, known as “Snowflake”, on the black luminescent dial are also inspired by Tudor’s rich history of diver’s watches. They were introduced in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. 

The manufacture caliber MT5602 that powers the Pelagos FXD boasts a power reserve of 72 hours. Designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, the self-winding movement features a non-magnetic silicon hairspring and variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Certified as a COSC chronometer, it has a precision rate between -2 and +4 seconds per day.

Water-resistant to 200 meters, the new Tudor Pelagos FXD Black comes on a one-piece forest green fabric strap with a red center stripe. A black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap is also included.

Pricing for the Pelagos FXD is marked at $4,150.

To learn more, visit Tudor, here.

For those unfamiliar: the Kunsthaus Zürich is home to one of Switzerland’s most important art collections, with around 4’000 paintings and sculptures as well as 95’000 prints and drawings from the 13th century to the present day. While around 1’000 art works are on permanent display, the special exhibition can be visited until January 14, 2024.

“From the Renaissance to the present day, this fascinating exhibition presents an immense diversity of artworks that, uniquely, are shown in dialogue with watches: timepieces in which perspectives from the natural sciences, sociology and economics are integral, just as they are in the works by over 100 artists on display.”

Kunsthaus Zürich

This “journey through the history of time” consists of paintings, videos, films, installations, performances and examples of the watchmaker’s art. They tell of “the changing seasons, the possibilities to reflect and global financial markets that are now synchronized down to the last picosecond.” With more than 1,200 [square] meters of exhibition space, the exhibition is divided into six chapters which consider ‘deep time’, political dimensions and biological aspects of time, and more. Some impressions:

Curated by Cathérine Hug, the exhibition is a collaboration with the Musée international d’horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds (some will notice, for example, the Rolex Deep-Sea Special from the MIH’s collection), in liaison with CERN in Meyrin and experts in the field.

More here.

The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin

The Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin showcases the brilliance of Gerald Charles’ craftsmanship. Its 39mm rose gold case, based on Mr. Gerald Charles Genta’s original drawing, is a marvel of engineering in its conception and production. Comprising 35 meticulously crafted components, CNC machined to perfection, the case showcases the brand’s commitment to detail in seamlessly bringing them together. The screw-down crown, bespoke gasket, and the flat sapphire crystal ensure not only a stunning facade but also a robust, 100m water resistant timepiece.

Beneath a domed sapphire crystal, the watch reveals its chocolate brown sunburst dial. The play of light and shadow on the display’s rich hues quickly engages the eye, with an outer minute track following the lines of the case and adding to the watch’s focus on form. Applied circular and baton-shaped hour markers and matching hands with Super-LumiNova accents adds to its function, while a subtle date window at the 6 o’clock reinforces the watch’s daily utility— altogether creating a harmonious interplay of elegance and functionality.

Powering the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin is the caliber Ref. GCA 3002 Manufacture, an ultra-thin automatic movement measuring just 3.7mm thick and capable of a 50-hour power reserve. The movement was developed in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, with its finely decorated surfaces featuring colimaçon, côtes de Genève, and perlage finishes all visible alongside an oscillating mass via a sapphire exhibition caseback.

The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph

Like the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin, the 39mm Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is as much an exercise in form meeting function, but now with an additional complication. Meticulously assembled by hand, the chronograph’s warm, rose gold case boasts a 39-component construction, with its 100m water resistance ensured via a screw-down crown marked with a Clous de Paris texture. Pushers on either side of the crown match the style of the style, enhancing both aesthetics and functionality.

Beneath its sapphire crystal, the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph features a mesmerizing chocolate brown sunburst dial, with rose gold accents throughout—especially as accents for the three sub-dials—adding an incredible depth to the design. Like the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin, circular and baton-shaped applied indices with matching hands with Super-LumiNova detailing adds to both beauty and functionality, with the sub-dials displaying running seconds, a 30-minute chronograph counter, and a 12-hour counter.

At the heart of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is the caliber Ref. GCA 3022/12, an automatic chronograph movement derived from the GCA 3002 that’s also been developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The movement is incredibly thin at just 6.07mm, and it naturally features the incredible finishing Gerald Charles has in-part built its reputation upon, inclusive of colimaçon, côtes de Genève and perlage touches all visible through an exhibition sapphire caseback.

Pricing and Availability

And as autumn paints the world in warm hues, these watches invite you to embrace the season with sophistication and style. Both the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin and the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph are available now directly through the brand and via authorized boutiques. Pricing for the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin is marked at $36,200 USD, while the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is marked at $44,100.

To learn more, visit Gerald Charles, here.

The German luxury brand is now expanding the Senator Excellence line with two new versions of the Perpetual Calendar, as well as two additional models featuring the Panorama Date and moon phase complications. 

The perpetual calendar stands out as one of the most coveted and simultaneously complex complications in the realms of horology. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is a beautiful example of this intricate haute horlogerie complication in a contemporary and user-friendly manner. Display windows replace traditional hands, ensuring optimal legibility and an elegant, clear design. Convenient correctors on the case make adjustments for the weekday, month, and moon phase easy, while the universal corrector allows simultaneous setting of the day, date, and month.

The Senator Excellence Panorama Date seamlessly combines two distinctive Glashütte Original complications, the moon phase and the brand’s large date. A meticulously crafted silver- or gold-colored moon gracefully moves beneath a curved opening in the dial. Precise diamond milling creates a sharp profile, distinct against the galvanic blue night sky. A generous dial aperture at 4 o’clock frames the Glashütte Original Panorama Date, which is comprised of two date discs mounted on the same level and without a central separation bar, thus ensuring optimal legibility.

All four new additions are clad into a round, 42 mm satin-brushed and polished case (Perpetual Calendar) or a 40 mm diameter case (Panorama Date Moon Phase) equipped with a slim, elegant bezel. The red gold versions boast a galvanic silver dial. Deep black numerals are clearly set off against the Panorama Date’s ivory-colored display discs. The hour and minute hands are fashioned in fine red gold, as are the manually applied Roman numerals.

The stainless steel versions present galvanic grey dials. The Panorama Date display discs show white numerals against a matte blue backdrop. Appropriately, the gold appliques are coated in blue and the hour and minute hands are fashioned in traditional blued steel. All dials are distinguished by a fine-grained surface texture. The raised Roman numerals and velvety surface lend the watches a classic, elegant face with distinctive contrasts and great visual depth. 

The new Perpetual Calendar timepieces are powered by the Calibre 36-12, while the Calibre 36-24 drives the models with Panorama Date and moon phase. 

Pricing for the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar starts at $31,000 for the red gold variant and at $21,900 for the stainless steel execution. The Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase starts at $22,400 for the red gold version and at $11,400 for stainless steel.

To learn more, visit Glashütte Original, here.

One of the most beautiful contemporary moon-phase indications is offered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Moon. This picture-perfect dress watch is now introduced in a pink gold case paired with a gradient midnight blue dial. An elegant combination that further highlights the timeless elegance and subtle beauty of this ultra-thin timepiece that is powered by the legendary Caliber 925.

Perfectly matching the pink gold case, the dial indications enhance the aesthetic harmony of the design and emphasize the beauty of the dial’s gradient color. The hours are marked by long, tapered triangles, which, like the ‘JL’ logo, are applied; their shape is echoed by the Dauphine hands; and the minutes are indicated by applied golden dots.

The moon phase display adds further detail and refinement, its subtly textured finishes contrasting with the shiny blue of the sunray dial and the mirror-polished moon disc. Displaying the date on a ring around the moon-phase aperture maintains aesthetic harmony and creates a visual anchor for the main complication.

At 39mm in diameter, the case is well-balanced and perfectly proportioned; combining a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, it maintains a strong visual presence on the wrist even with its slim profile of just 9.3mm. 

Developed and produced entirely in-house, the new-generation Calibre 925 is a high-performing automatic movement that provides 70 hours of power reserve. An 18-carat pink gold oscillating weight and refined decoration and finishing are revealed in all their beauty through the transparent case back.

Pricing of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon is marked at $23,000.

To learn more, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre, here.