Watch Features – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com Wristwatch reviews, watch news, watch database. Wed, 01 Nov 2023 14:12:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.watchtime.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/WatchTime_Icon-205x205.jpg Watch Features – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com 32 32 Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Tonda PF Automatic Steel Rose Gold Sand Grey https://www.watchtime.com/featured/parmigiani-fleurier-introduces-tonda-pf-automatic-steel-rose-gold-sand-grey/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/parmigiani-fleurier-introduces-tonda-pf-automatic-steel-rose-gold-sand-grey/#respond Thu, 02 Nov 2023 12:37:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=153647 With its meticulous attention to design and a focus on intricate details, Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF line has rapidly emerged as one of the Swiss independent manufacture’s most expressive models. Following the success of the 40mm diameter models, a more compact 36mm version is now being introduced.

Similar to its larger counterpart, the 36-mm Tonda PF Automatic Steel Rose Gold Sand Grey captivates with its harmonious proportions and a sleek stainless steel case, measuring just 8.6 mm in height, with an integrated bracelet design. It is distinguished by the magnificent pattern of the sand gray dial, achieved through barleycorn guilloché. The signature skeletonized hour and minute hands and bold hour markers maximize visibility of this decorative element.

Featuring a pink gold bezel and pink gold elements in the bracelet, the latest addition to the line also introduces a two-tone elegance to the line. The delta-shaped hands are driven by the in-house caliber PF770, an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

The meticulously finished movement is adorned with Geneva stripes and beveled edges, and the skeletonized rotor showcases a rose gold oscillating weight. With a screw-down crown and a quadruple screw-down back, the Tonda PF Automatic Steel Rose Gold Sand Grey boasts a water resistance of up to 100 meters.

Pricing for the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic Steel Rose Gold Sand Grey is marked at approximately $26,800 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Parmigiani Fleurier, here.

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Breitling Updates the Avenger Collection, Going Upmarket with Downsized Cases https://www.watchtime.com/featured/breitling-updates-the-avenger-collection-going-upmarket-with-downsized-cases/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/breitling-updates-the-avenger-collection-going-upmarket-with-downsized-cases/#respond Wed, 01 Nov 2023 13:00:33 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=154433 Just announced by Breitling is the newly refreshed Avenger collection that updates the entire line consisting of chronograph, GMT, and automatic models. Introduced over two decades ago as a more accessible and sporty alternative to the Chronomat, the Avenger has become a staple of Breitling’s lineup with its bold modern pilot watch style. Of course, one of the most common complaints among enthusiasts has been how large the case sizes are with the previous generation starting at 43mm and going all the way up to 48mm. Well, those detractors will be happy with this updated collection which shrinks the case sizes down substantially alongside new dials and an in-house movement for the chronograph.

Breitling Avenger Chronograph

Breitling Avenger Chronograph

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Breitling Avenger Chronograph

The Avenger Chronograph has gone from being offered in 43, 45, and 48mm cases to a uniform 44mm across the board. Measuring 44mm wide and 15.2mm thick with a 53mm lug-to-lug height (300m of water resistance), the chronograph is now outfitted with the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 movement replacing the old Valjoux 7750. This COSC-certified in-house movement operates at 28,800 vph with a 70-hour power reserve and boasts a column-wheel and vertical clutch. The Caliber 01 allows for the new iteration to have chronograph sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than 6, 9, and 12 o’clock which most people prefer. The date window is removed altogether and the vintage-style B Breitling logo replaces the winged logo that seems to have phased out by all but the Professional line. 

Breitling Avenger Chronograph Night Mission
Breitling Avenger Chronograph Night Mission

The core Avenger Chronograph models come in a steel case in either black, blue, green, and sand-colored dials on a matching strap or steel bracelet. I’m glad to see Breitling also chose to update the always-cool Night Mission version which is done in a black ceramic case with either black carbon or yellow dial.

Breitling Avenger GMT
Breitling Avenger GMT

The Avenger Automatic GMT 44 also shrinks the case down a bit down from the previous 45mm iteration. Measuring 44m wide and 12mm thick with a 53mm lug-to-lug height (300 m of water resistance), the GMT largely retains the previous aesthetic albeit with the B logo rather than the wings. Still powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 32 (essentially an ETA 2893), it operates at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve. 

Breitling Avenger Automatic 42
Breitling Avenger Automatic 42

Finally, there is the new base Avenger Automatic 42. Previously offered in 43 or 45mm versions it is now only available in 42mm which is quite a universal fit for this type of sport watch. Done in steel, the Avenger Automatic 42 measures 42mm wide and 12.15mm thick with a 51.21mm lug-to-lug height (also with 300 m of water resistance). It is still outfitted with the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 (ETA 2824) that operates at 28,800 vph with a 38-hour power reserve. Again, the dial is not changed much with the exception of the Breitling logo. It is offered in black, blue, and green dial options with matching straps or steel bracelet.

Breitling Avenger

Breitling clearly knows how to read the room and the new Avenger collection reflects consumers’ desire for more wearable, smaller cases that don’t push it past the 44mm mark. They also are clearly trying to move the collection upmarket with price increases across the board. The updates to the chronograph are the most substantial which is reflected in the significant price increase to $8,000 on strap and $8,250 on bracelet. The Night Mission with yellow dial is priced at $9,300 while the carbon dial version is $9,500. The Avenger Automatic GMT is priced at $5,250 on strap and $5,500 on bracelet while the Avenger Automatic 42 is $4,600 on strap and $4,850 on bracelet.

To learn more, visit Breitling, here

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A New Aperture: Meet the New Leica ZM 11 https://www.watchtime.com/featured/a-new-aperture-meet-the-new-leica-zm-11/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/a-new-aperture-meet-the-new-leica-zm-11/#respond Wed, 01 Nov 2023 12:27:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=153172 With the new ZM 11, Leica Watches presents its third timepiece. Like the previous editions, the three-hand timepiece with date indication beautifully reflects the photographic legacy and evokes some hallmarks of the legendary camera heritage through carefully selected details and refined craftsmanship.

The dual-layered dial– available in black and red, warm black, and midnight blue– transforms its appearance depending on the wearer’s angle. Rather than relying on printed visual effects, the upper layer boasts a grill that showcases gradients in either sunray or horizontal brushing, and even alters its hue when the watch is tilted. The brushed indexes are accentuated by gleaming edges and Superluminova filling for night readability. The diamond-cut hands are subtly faceted to further enhance the play of light. A black ring, placed between the sapphire crystal and bezel, echoes the lens design of a Leica camera.

The ZM 11 is powered by a genuine caliber produced in collaboration with the Swiss movement specialist Chronode. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, the self-winding movement boasts an impressive accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day and a power reserve of 60 hours. Like the dial it embodies the essence of Leica’s design aesthetics, with sandblasted bridges and brushed chamfers, complemented by polished sides.

The movement is enclosed by a titanium or stainless-steel case with diameters of 41mm, each equipped with the brand’s Easy Change system, which allows seamless switching between different strap options, including stainless steel, titanium, rubber, and fabric. This mechanism is also inspired by Leica cameras, with a red dot on the underside of releasing the straps when pushed.

Pricing for the new Leica ZM 11 is approximately marked between $7,150 (steel and fabric or rubber strap) and $8,570 (titanium and titanium bracelet) when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Leica, here.

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Back in Black: Another Look at Tudor’s Latest Pelagos FXD https://www.watchtime.com/featured/back-in-black-tudor-introduces-latest-pelagos-fxd/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/back-in-black-tudor-introduces-latest-pelagos-fxd/#respond Wed, 01 Nov 2023 12:13:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=152434 The new Pelagos FXD pays tribute to seven decades of Tudor watches developed for U.S. Navy divers. It is presented in a 42mm satin-brushed titanium case for a matte effect, boasts fixed strap bars and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a luminescent ceramic insert and 60-minute graduation. Dubbed as a modern “Milsub”(short for Military Submariner), it resembles a late ‘60s-era Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016, and follows the original blue edition that first debuted in 2021.

The wording of the watch hints at its historical background, with “FXD” referring to the robust “FiXeD” strap bars of the case. Directly machined into the main body, they increase robustness and reliability and were part of the requirements of U.S. military specification for diver’s watches. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette.

An essential feature inspired by other famous Tudor watches of the most notably early Submariners, the crown guards have a pointed shape. It goes without saying that the characteristic square hour markers and angular hands, known as “Snowflake”, on the black luminescent dial are also inspired by Tudor’s rich history of diver’s watches. They were introduced in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. 

The manufacture caliber MT5602 that powers the Pelagos FXD boasts a power reserve of 72 hours. Designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, the self-winding movement features a non-magnetic silicon hairspring and variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Certified as a COSC chronometer, it has a precision rate between -2 and +4 seconds per day.

Water-resistant to 200 meters, the new Tudor Pelagos FXD Black comes on a one-piece forest green fabric strap with a red center stripe. A black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap is also included.

Pricing for the Pelagos FXD is marked at $4,150.

To learn more, visit Tudor, here.

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Sponsored: Ready for Autumn – The New Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin and the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph https://www.watchtime.com/featured/sponsored-ready-for-autumn-the-new-gerald-charles-maestro-2-0-ultra-thin-and-the-maestro-3-0-chronograph/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/sponsored-ready-for-autumn-the-new-gerald-charles-maestro-2-0-ultra-thin-and-the-maestro-3-0-chronograph/#respond Tue, 31 Oct 2023 14:40:50 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=153720 As autumn arrives, the esteemed Swiss watchmaker Gerald Charles proudly unveils two new exceptional timepieces inspired by the season, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin and the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph. Each of the new watches are clad in the rich hues of 18K Rose Gold 4N, with brown sunburst dial and matching chocolate brown vulcanized rubber straps. Each carries the elegance and sophistication of earlier editions by the maison in rose gold and royal blue, with the new rich shades of brown speaking perfectly to the seasonal changes.

The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin

The Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin showcases the brilliance of Gerald Charles’ craftsmanship. Its 39mm rose gold case, based on Mr. Gerald Charles Genta’s original drawing, is a marvel of engineering in its conception and production. Comprising 35 meticulously crafted components, CNC machined to perfection, the case showcases the brand’s commitment to detail in seamlessly bringing them together. The screw-down crown, bespoke gasket, and the flat sapphire crystal ensure not only a stunning facade but also a robust, 100m water resistant timepiece.

Beneath a domed sapphire crystal, the watch reveals its chocolate brown sunburst dial. The play of light and shadow on the display’s rich hues quickly engages the eye, with an outer minute track following the lines of the case and adding to the watch’s focus on form. Applied circular and baton-shaped hour markers and matching hands with Super-LumiNova accents adds to its function, while a subtle date window at the 6 o’clock reinforces the watch’s daily utility— altogether creating a harmonious interplay of elegance and functionality.

Powering the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin is the caliber Ref. GCA 3002 Manufacture, an ultra-thin automatic movement measuring just 3.7mm thick and capable of a 50-hour power reserve. The movement was developed in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, with its finely decorated surfaces featuring colimaçon, côtes de Genève, and perlage finishes all visible alongside an oscillating mass via a sapphire exhibition caseback.

The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph

Like the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin, the 39mm Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is as much an exercise in form meeting function, but now with an additional complication. Meticulously assembled by hand, the chronograph’s warm, rose gold case boasts a 39-component construction, with its 100m water resistance ensured via a screw-down crown marked with a Clous de Paris texture. Pushers on either side of the crown match the style of the style, enhancing both aesthetics and functionality.

Beneath its sapphire crystal, the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph features a mesmerizing chocolate brown sunburst dial, with rose gold accents throughout—especially as accents for the three sub-dials—adding an incredible depth to the design. Like the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin, circular and baton-shaped applied indices with matching hands with Super-LumiNova detailing adds to both beauty and functionality, with the sub-dials displaying running seconds, a 30-minute chronograph counter, and a 12-hour counter.

At the heart of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is the caliber Ref. GCA 3022/12, an automatic chronograph movement derived from the GCA 3002 that’s also been developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The movement is incredibly thin at just 6.07mm, and it naturally features the incredible finishing Gerald Charles has in-part built its reputation upon, inclusive of colimaçon, côtes de Genève and perlage touches all visible through an exhibition sapphire caseback.

Pricing and Availability

And as autumn paints the world in warm hues, these watches invite you to embrace the season with sophistication and style. Both the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin and the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph are available now directly through the brand and via authorized boutiques. Pricing for the Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin is marked at $36,200 USD, while the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is marked at $44,100.

To learn more, visit Gerald Charles, here.

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